If you've replaced the part you need to clear the codes then let the vehicle run its own diagnostics.
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If you've replaced the part you need to clear the codes then let the vehicle run its own diagnostics.
im kind of in the same situation this guy is in but mine is maf low voltage input sumed up. replaced maf, nothing changed. how long is long enough
P0102 could also mean that the wiring connection could be faulty. Check the sensor wiring, and make sure it has a proper connection, and that they're aren't any broken or frayed wires. Also, when you unplugged the battery, how long did you let it sit? It can sometimes take 30 mins or so for the ecu's working memory to clear.
You wouldn't have, by any chance been cleaning/oiling your air filter at the same time you installed your new sensor? If you over oiled the filter, you could have already contaminated the new sensor. It's not likely, but I thought I would ask just in case.
After you reset the ecu, turn the key to the accessory position, but don't start the car. Sit there for 15-20 secs. Then start it, and let it idle for 10 mins or so. You want to allow ample time for the ecu to calibrate idle and warm up values. Drive it around normally for a 5-10 mins, then get into the throttle, and do some hard driving for a bit. This will give the ECU a decent baseline for it's trim values matched to the engine and ancilliary components condition, like a new MAF sensor.
Last edited by Slowpoke; 04-17-2011 at 12:18 PM.
well i did what you said to do slow with no avail
Well, i went outside this evening..after not driving my car all day..to start it up & see if it was still acting funny and it started rite up and the service engine light was off..drove it to that gas station..put some gas in it..started it back up and still no "service engine light"...Yeahhhhhhh! So i guess it ran its course to do its own diagnostics..if it comes back..ima guess its faulty wiring..but its fixed..lol
i just have a cheap ass analog one not a digital and ive heard that using an analog could damage the ecu by pulling too much current through the ecu since the analog converts current to a magnetic signal which moves the needle
Ok, yeah I've heard it's not a good idea to use an analog meter also.
You are throwing P0101 correct? I pulled this off the web...
Hope this helps.
- <LI itxtHarvested="1" itxtNodeId="83">Inspect for the following conditions:
An incorrectly routed harness--Inspect the harness of the MAF sensor in order to verify that it is not routed too close to the following components:
- The secondary ignition wires or coils
- Any solenoids
- Any relays
- Any motors <LI itxtHarvested="1" itxtNodeId="82">A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF sensor. <LI itxtHarvested="1" itxtNodeId="81">A wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF sensor g/s display on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase should be from 6-12 g/s at idle to 230 g/s or more at the time of the 1-2 shift. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system. <LI itxtHarvested="1" itxtNodeId="80">The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor at key ON. <LI itxtHarvested="1" itxtNodeId="79">When the engine is running the MAP sensor value is continually updated near WOT. A skewed MAP sensor will cause the calculated MAF value to be inaccurate. The value shown for the MAP sensor display varies with the altitude. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, 103 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters (1,000 feet) of altitude. <LI itxtHarvested="1" itxtNodeId="78">A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.- Any loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.
it was p0102, mass air flow low voltage input
Not to be a dick, but your post sounded very familiar and I looked up your other posts. Then I didn't read this one at all to see if you've actually done any work.
You've posted on the TPS, IAC, MAF etc etc a bunch of times lately. Have you done any work or just kept posting in hopes that someone has a perfect answer for you?
With so many things ...I'm still thinking it's a fuse. There's too many things that would share a circuit to all have issues at once. That means ground or power.
Since it's the 4th or so time I'm reading all this in your posts.. maybe I'll see if you did some work...
Hey bill were you talking to me or the op? As for myself I've been asking a lot of questions cuz I've been having problems and I don't have a manual. Ill have my buddy come scan my car and fix the obvious and it doesn't work then I come on here to maybe see if anybody else might know what is going on
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hey check out my thread and the last post:
http://www.grandprixforums.net/maf-l...oms-45393.html
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