by the box they are quite the deal.
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by the box they are quite the deal.
Before I say another word just know I am a bit biased because I am sponsored by AMSOIL. I use AMSOIL in everything I own for a few different reasons. Manufacturers like schaefer, Royal purple and AMSOIL already have all of the friction modifiers and additives in them for each specific application. WARNING running higher viscosity race oil in your car is horrible for daily driving! a 20 w 50 race oil will not curculate to critical areas of your engine as it is supposed too and you will drastically shorten the life of your engine. I change the oil in my race quad every 2 races and the oil looks clean after I pull it out. However in my GP and truck I run AMSOILS filter and change the oil twice per year. I send it back to there lab, they test it and send me a report as to when I should change it. My truck has ran on it for well over 100000 and doesnt use a drop of oil and gets 20 mpg highway. The GP is still in its infancy because I havnt owned it long but I did a 1000 mile amsoil flush and the crap that came out of the motor from cheap oil was horrible but its clean as a pin after my third change in 10000 miles. So I beg to differ oil is not oil. Royal purple would deffinately be my second choice if was going to run anything else, so take that for what its worth.
^^
I've also heard that running thicker oil in street engines isn't good from several other people that study oil and know their stuff. Just because it shows good oil pressure, doesn't mean it's getting to where it's needed, it's kinda like yeah, you have 60 psi at idle, but is it really doing good where it needs to be. Am I right?
10w30 here, and it's not done me wrong in any motor I've ever had. Again, it goes back to preventative maintenance.
To touch on the penzoil thing, Read and seen several cases where penzoil sludges...especially up in the top of the engine, around the valve springs and such. Of course, if you have someone that's religious about it, you'll never convince them it's not a good oil. Again though, just from my perspective...never ran the stuff before.
Your engine has channels in it for the oil to travel if it is too thick it wont distribute properly and over time it will cause excessive wear to parts that would normally last much longer. It also creates greater oil PRESSURE which puts more pressure on seals gaskets bearings and all other engine parts over long periods of time in daily driving and high mileage situations it isnt good for your engine. 20 w 50 race oil was meant for what it says ,a race. Lots of newer engines have failed due to running the wrong weight of oil and very restrictive oil filters such as a fram on the Ford 5.4. The oil filter bieng too restrictive coupled with too heavy of an oil that wont get up to the top end efficiantly for all of the variable cam timing and other high tech engine components. So moral of the story no matter what oil you choose to run in your ride make sure you run the viscosity that the owners manual says to run.
I've noticed slightly less oil pressure with a fram on compared to my normal mobil 1 filter.
yeah, but the 3800 doesn't have the fancy VVT or anything like that. Not arguing with you, but simple is probably best. I agree that running the heavy oil isn't really necessary since the engines aren't an extreme application that you need anything like that.
I'm confused here. I thought we just established excessive oil pressure was bad.
On the logic side of things here, whats the most popular oil filter?
If its fram, then you can't argue that the correlation between the number of fram'd engines failing is due to the filter.
I think that what he was saying that just because you pour in a heavier oil for the reason of just bringing your oil pressure up gives you a false sense of security. Big whoop if you've got a lot of oil pressure, if the oil is too thick it's not doing any good.
Roller motors like these don't really need a 50wt oil, a lot of that stuff is designed for flat tapped type motors, and extreme racing conditions where the engine is turning 8000 rpms etc etc etc. The roller bearings that are in the lifters probably need a little lighter oil so that they're well lubricated.
It's probably not practical to use in most of the newer manufacture engines.
ok so after using the cobalt on 5w 30 royal purple for the last couple weeks we have noticed a 2 mpg average gain over a the 850 miles we have put on the car. no real noticeable hp gain on the butt dyno. does seem to take a little longer to warm up in very cold weather but also stays cooler through out the drive. looks like the 145k mile ford explorer will be next on the testing block.
I just switched to synthetic when I got my car at 165000 and now it has 175000. I use mobil one. Also change my oil every 5 k since I switched and its still really clean
I use 0-20 sythetic in my 01 gtp 3800 supercharged engine with 105,000 miles on it and change oil when monitor gets down to about 5% and using synthetic it goes for more miles than before i switched, so synthetic does last longer.
If you were to have an oil anaylsis done you'd probably find you could run through the OLM twice before you needed to change it.
Also hows the oil pressure?
30 seems to be the preferred running weight.
I use Valvoline oil in my car just because thats what my dad had been using since 1977 and has never experienced any issues. I also change the oil every 3000 miles. I do use Napa oil filters too. Just something my dad has used for a while because his mechanic friends use them.
You can't really base MPG on a "better" oil just because you changed it unless you ran exact trips going exactly the same speed with same temperatures, same throttle patterns and many other factors.......
I've heard many people claim MPG gains on oil and i just can't make sense of the theories. I understand less restriction/friction helping an engine run better but it's nearly impossible to prove a theory unless your car is controlled by a computer running it through identical processes.
I personally run a synthetic with Lucas Oil Stabilizer. The synthetic usually differs, however I guess my "favorites" are Castrol Syntec Full Syn and Mobil 1.
I run Amsoil and have them test the oil every 10000 miles. I changed my oil last time at 40000 miles and it was still good in all areas, just changed it to make me feel better. My AMSOIL rep changes his every 75000 miles. If that wont make you a believer I dont know what would
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