Thread: Troubleshooting Help? DIC & heater/AC not working

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  1. #1 Troubleshooting Help? DIC & heater/AC not working 
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    Intermittently my DIC & heater/ac controls won't work for 2 to 5 minutes after I start my car, then they suddenly come on. This just started three days ago. Any ideas? I'm getting the manuals out tonite, but I also know how helpful you all are with these issues.
    Thanks in advance for all or your help!

    Tim
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  2. #2 Re: Troubleshooting Help? DIC & heater/AC not working 
    GTX Level Member noreasonwhyy's Avatar
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    ignition switch is the culprit.
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  3. #3 Re: Troubleshooting Help? DIC & heater/AC not working 
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    Thanks for the reply. Is there any way to clean the contacts of the ignition switch? or does it normally require replacement?

    Tim
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  4. #4 Re: Troubleshooting Help? DIC & heater/AC not working 
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    i'm not exactly sure, but some say that it is the grounds causing the problem. here's one way to avoid replacement as it's a $70 part: http://www.grandprixforums.net/ignition_bypass.php
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  5. #5 Re: Troubleshooting Help? DIC & heater/AC not working 
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    TMC, did you finally fix the problem with dic and heater and if you did how did you did it because i have the same problem. thanks.
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  6. #6 Re: Troubleshooting Help? DIC & heater/AC not working 
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    When I removed the under dash panel I opened Pandora's Box! See my post about "Theft Deterrent System". I'm in the process of properly making all of the connections to the mess someone did in the past and concurrently connecting the "Ignition Saver Mod".
    The instructions for a normal unmolested harness is as follows:

    Ignition Saver Mod:
    My accessory/heater/DIC contacts in my ignition switch assembly just won't cut it anymore. So, instead of an expensive and time consuming replacement, I decided to just drop in a bypass relay which should have been there in the first place from the factory. This also works if your ignition contacts are still functional, and will save them from an untimely death.

    Simple circuit. Uses a couple of short pieces of wire and a relay. Use 10-12AWG stranded wire for the jumper to the +12v constant wire. Basically, the original ignition switch contacts for the high current accessory circuit now only power a single relay. The new relay now carries the current, and is EASILY replaceable should it ever fail.

    Disconnect your negative battery cable. Find the heavy orange accessory wire in the main ignition harness. Cut it in half in a convenient location. Connect the steering wheel side to relay pin #85. Connect the firewall side to relay pin #30. Connect relay pin #86 to a solid chassis ground screw. Tap into the the heavy red power wire in the main ignition harness, and connect it to relay pin #87.

    Pin #85 goes to +12vdc when the ignition is in run mode, thus energizing the relay coil. The relay contacts then connect the main power (red) to the accessory circuit (org) instead of the stock ignition contacts.

    I have a pic and a diagram, if you want them e-mail me and I'll send them to you. "tjljmcoyle@juno.com"
    Tim
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