just disconnect the negative and put a cloth around it so it doesnt short.
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09-08-2010
just disconnect the negative and put a cloth around it so it doesnt short.
09-08-2010
HAHA brain fart! thanks for that, i fixed it so now you post looks dumbOriginally Posted by matt5112
I lol'd....
its POWERTRAIN control module.
09-08-2010
Actually it doesnt...
09-08-2010
Whats your Lft's read at idle?
http://www.streetfire.net/video/2001...ynp_208097.htm
09-08-2010
No it doesn't electricity can not flow in an open circuit no matter what way you look at it. So either cable works fine. You should just use the neg tho, so you do not short the wrench on anything while you are loosing the battery bolt.
09-08-2010
obv open circuit means no action but its stupid how the positive is really the negative...
09-09-2010
Ok....good news and bad news....the rest worked! slowly got into wot and both fuel trim are now 0 at wot. ok great, but still seeing 5.3 k/r. now, i still have a bad s/c coupler...could this be contributing to the cause? and im pretty sure those spark plugs are too...
09-09-2010
ok good thats what i thought....01gp my ltft and stft were pretty high at idle before the reset..didnt really pay attention this moring after the reset.
Last edited by iluvbst; 09-09-2010 at 09:53 AM.
09-09-2010
change plugs, possibly wires too if you can just to make sure.
btw what are you using as a scan tool if you dont mind my asking?
Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier
09-09-2010
yeah probly going to change those out soon..should i go with the 104s or just with 606s for now? im using scangauge2...the car drives and sounds smoother since th reset...and i forgot to mention that the k/r has like a peak now...ill be at 4700 with 5.3 k/r and 5500 with 3.3 kr...
09-09-2010
Did you try adding octane booster to see if it went away?
If it doesnt change in value then its false knock.
And if your car is stock and doesnt have 20" of vacuum at idle with the A/C off then it prolly has a vac leak.
Dont recall you posting an actual number.
If you're stock, 606's, if you're running a 3.4 then 104's.
09-09-2010
it was 19in...the car has about 199k miles on it..not sure if thats the original motor in there but if it is i dont think it will has a perfect 20in of vac will it? and which octane booster should i use?
09-09-2010
Any octane booster should be fine... basically the gist was to rule out bad gas being the culprit.
09-09-2010
ok will do...
09-09-2010
ok...so seems like the octane booster worked, highest k/r i saw was 3.8 and that was because it was shifting from 3-4. but the rest of the pulls were in 2nd from 2500-5500 and the highest k/r i saw there was 2.6. so im guessing the rest is because of these bosch plugs...so do i have to run a octane booster all the time now? and dont worry, i didnt just slap the octane booster in and wot it..lol i drove like 10-15 miles before i started testing, so pretty sure it working.
09-09-2010
well gettin rid of those plugs would be a good idea
09-09-2010
Got any BP stations close to you? They sell 92+ octane...and they sell 93 here in Missouri...and I'm pretty sure you should be able to get some high crap in Florida...like 94? Try that coupled with some Autolite 605's...and gap them at .055"...also...you said the car was bone stock right? Go spend $40 at an exhaust shop and have the U-Bend removed...that should kill all of your knock as it sits...also...FYI...easy on the 3-4 shift...your transmission doesn't like 3-4 @ WOT...at ALL.
09-10-2010
yeah i think i just need to change the plugs...i have the u bend and cat delete. and a 4" "simple intake"...im probly gonna get some race gas soon..just found out where i can get it. as i said the octane booster seems like it worked some..so next step is race gas.
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