Thread: And ... it begins.

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  1. #21 Re: And ... it begins. 
    SE Level Member jdwyat's Avatar
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    wow.. Thank you all for the responses. I've not had the time I need to read everything just yet.

    But thus I gathered.. no need to buy nicer plug wires. Stick with the inexpensive copper plugs, no need for a MAFS changeout, and the air intake is questionable at this point...

    Aaaand, changing the headers and cat serves no purpose.
    I'm still changing the cat.. because the factory one is shot.. however, if I don't have to spend money on a new set of headers. I won't.

    I'm kinda lost here.. LoL

    Unless it might degrade performance, I'd still like to change the wires. (for the color LoL)

    Someone posted earlier that plat plugs get hotter and might crack pistons. That's baaaaad..

    Sooooo .. .stick w/ high quality copper plugs and go w/ recommended factory gap settings?

    All your advice is appreciated, and more is invited.
    Criticize if you like, I've got thick skin.

    before I give the mechanic the "go ahead' and order parts I'd like to know what I'm doing.. I plan on doing the labor with him..

    He has the tools and knowledge. I assume.
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  2. #22 Re: And ... it begins. 
    SE Level Member jdwyat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Lemme set a few things staight here.

    Platinum and iridium plugs do last longer. In doing so they are a harder metal that gets much hotter than a copper plug. This means they are more likely to cause piston chipping, KR causing predetonation than a cheap POS copper plug. Which is why anyone that cares about their car will run a copper plug.

    I've done literally hundreds of transmission services. The FSM states 6.5 quarts of fluid for the service you plan on doing. I've found that 7 is a closer estimation and I tell folks to automatically buy two gallon containers as it's usually cheaper in quantity. 4 quarts will not cut it and you may damage the trans running it that low.

    Aluminum gaskets can be found either at a GM dealer or add a T on the end of the normal Fel Pro part number. That's the metal version.

    LIM's there's really no special tools needed to do this job except a torque wrench and to ensure you have a 3/8" socket as well as a 10mm. The LIM bolts are 3/8" not 10mm as GM would have us believe.
    If that's not a convincing reason not to stray from Copper plugs.
    Is there a recommended brand?

    My mechanic only recommended platinum for their advertised longevity.. not for performance reasons. Are there "normal burning" platinum plugs that he might be referring to?
    Last edited by jdwyat; 08-06-2010 at 08:28 AM.
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  3. #23 Re: And ... it begins. 
    SE Level Member jdwyat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluegtp91 View Post
    As for the JET MAF...it also...has only been really truly proven to show a very maginal gain on LS4 cars...not the 3800...it is a waste of money...and the money you waste on a K&N Intake...I eve tel you in there...make your own for less than a 1/3 of the cost of that junk.
    Someone mentioned simply sticking the K&N Cone filter on the end of the MAFS....

    I understood the goal was to get the air intake as far away from the core of the engine (to get away from the hotter ambient temp towards the block)

    Someone else mentioned that the JET was unnecessary... soo thus lays the dilemma. I read here someone saying that w/ the GTP 3800 supercharger, air temp didn't matter.

    I'll respond more when I get some time to breathe... no pun intended.
    Last edited by jdwyat; 08-06-2010 at 08:29 AM.
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  4. #24 Re: And ... it begins. 
    SE Level Member jdwyat's Avatar
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    I've started a new thread.

    update here:
    http://www.grandprixforums.net/injec...tml#post418812
    '04 Red GP GTP
    ----work in progress----
    (LA = Lower Alabama)
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