i'm not really up to speed on some of these abbreviations. if somebody can tell me what CFM means, i might be able to find it lol
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i'm not really up to speed on some of these abbreviations. if somebody can tell me what CFM means, i might be able to find it lol
CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute
All professionals here but nobody has that information:th_laugh-lol3:Quote:
Originally Posted by GreyGhost
All anyone has is intake air temp, which obviously isn't even key for most gtp owners. I'd think you could have a 4in diameter 10in long pipe mandrel bent at 22.5 degrees fabricated by any exhaust shop. Give it a couple good coats of hi temp heat reducer and go open cone. The time to figure it all out or the money it takes isn't worth it.
Only reason I was concerned is because of still got the stock air box assembley in my 98gtp and I want it to go by by.:th_thumbsup-wink:
LOL, I have a 4 inch K&N cone filter, but want to get a panel K&N filter first. I am NA though.Quote:
Originally Posted by cleangtp
ITS A MOTHER ****ING INTAKE.
LETS TALK ABOUT HOW A N/A 3800 SERIES TWO MAKES 125 HORSE AT 6 GRAND TO THE WHEELS.
****....
There are MUCH bigger limitations than your ****ing intake.
i was wondering why i was getting sand in my intake...then i figured out whos vagina its coming out of....****. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
you would trigger my OCD and make me want to figure that out.Quote:
Originally Posted by GreyGhost
Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
i thought canadians were a peaceful people jeeeez
Peaceful till you start blabbing about how much of a tool you are. :th_jester:Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaMan61
But for real dude, these engines have no top end so solve the powerband issues, then worry about the intake.
Its like trying to find the best bread for a sandwich when you have nothing to go inside it....
matt, stop drinking and typing.
in all seriousness though, matt does have a point. the intake is not the restrictive part once you change out the TUBING that goes to the air box. if you replace the tubing with a nice swooping bend and still use the stock air box with a drop in filter then you're miles ahead of the crappy bendy tubing they use from the factory.
once you decide that you want to ditch the air box, a short ram or open cone is the best you'll get. depending upon your level of power, an open cone becomes more and more apparent that it will work better since it just allows whatever the motor wants to eat up. cooler air becomes negated at some point. it's all a game of DIMINISHING GAINS.
Nobody knows the stock CFM rating for the stock setup? So, that being said nobody knows the CFM demands of a stock engine? Nobody knows what CFM gains if any happen when a bent piece of plastic/metal tubing is used?
All we know from the butt dyno is that it's better?
real dyno gains are shown, but i doubt anyone has done any CFM research.
cold, flowing intake.
gut the stock air box, but a big open cone filter in it. use a new hose going from the box to the throttle body that does not have the ridges in it disrupt air flow.
and keep the tb screen it, it helps alot.
on a side note, with increased flow, you get increased boost. even my wizair would heat soak after time, once your moving, the HAI as you call it sees ambient temps also.
Is a 45 bend sharp enough? It doesnt look like it to me, but a 90 is obviously too much. Mandrel bend is being used.
you want less than a 45*. one 22.5* bend is all you need.
22.5 will go strait to the fender hole
Just need it to hit the stock air box. Thanks for the info guys.
zzpQuote:
Originally Posted by Bio248
http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...les1.php?id=22
if you could find some flexible hosing you would be in business.
i dont know what the angle is from the box to the tb.
Thank you very much for digging that info up. :th_thumbsup-wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by cleangtp