if anyone needs intake ideas...

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Originally Posted by carlillo

Hi I just installed projector headlights , but everytime they r on everything starts flickering ... Can anyone help me out with this one please? , actually the projector doesnt go on anymore

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There should be a ton of threads in the appropriate places dealing with HID's and projectors. This is kind of the wrong thread to be talking about headlights, but welcome to the forum. There's a ton of information and know how here on this site. Up above you will see the search button right next to my posts, type in hid projectors it will bring up a lot of info. Sounds like you blew a fuse, burnt out your bulb, fried your ballast, or just indeed need a relay harness to supply power from a direct 12volt source.

Buy better projectors!
I ****ed up making my FWI with 3" and an @$$ load of bends. I then got reamed by the guys on here, and went with the short ram setup. IMO, I like it better.
Kind of on subject. My F-250 has a ram air setup. I will upload a photo at some point. Basically, the intake looks like an octopus. It is the 5.8L 351. Have any of you guys seen this?

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Originally Posted by carlillo

Hi I just installed projector headlights , but everytime they r on everything starts flickering ... Can anyone help me out with this one please? , actually the projector doesnt go on anymore

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Wow thread jack....

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Originally Posted by carlillo

Hi I just installed projector headlights , but everytime they r on everything starts flickering ... Can anyone help me out with this one please? , actually the projector doesnt go on anymore

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definitely wrong thread bro

Back to the intake ideas, how about something like this?
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1273158607

The gray is a heatshield that has an opening at the fender. Inside the shield would be a short ram setup. The idea behind this is instead of moving the cone to the cold air, bring the cold air to the cone. Ignore the fact that is engine is n/a.

i suppose it could be sort of beneficial, but you have to remember EVERYTHING heat soaks after a while so will be really be effective? who knows.

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Originally Posted by cleangtp

I do get what you're saying about the blown cars however wouldn't it be a risky thing to do creating more knock on these cars? My gtp only has 82000 miles on it, it's a red coupe. Don't get me wrong I really want to be able to hear the intake and supercharger it's very quiet with stock air box.

I don't know why aftermarket companies haven't made a kit to fit the front grill inserts with a ram. Have it funnel up in back of the headlight where you could have an open cone sitting there. Kinda like the gto inserts but have black funneling tubes to direct air right to the filter. Although it would still be getting hot air from the engine bay it would be getting more air, plus cooler air.

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So you want to direct the air away from the upper half of your rad which cools your engine to have SLIGHTLY cooler air than a ram air intake?

Have fun! :th_thumbsup-wink:

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Originally Posted by Bio248

i suppose it could be sort of beneficial, but you have to remember EVERYTHING heat soaks after a while so will be really be effective? who knows.

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Gotta look at heat capacity, find something that's cheap and has a low heat capacity.

Screw the practicality of it, I am just trying to figure out the best intake scientifically. To cool down the heat shield a Liquid helium spray should do the trick.

if you go into the physics of it then you'll most likly figure out that an open cone with some form of ducting that wouldn't reduce available air to the cone would be your best option. however, the gains from that are going to be so minimal in comparison to running just an open cone that it's not worth the effort. don't worry about cold air so much, worry more about the ability to flow whatever the engine wants without any restrictions.

pfft. I switched my home made intake to an open cone and I'll see how it works out for a while. I left the IAT sensor just hanging out there, hope it doesn't make any difference. I also removed the MAF screen, it always bothered me that it was there in the way acting like some kind of restriction/air heating device.

I have a larger cone so it goes all the way to the cruise control unit. I saw at autozone that they sell a plastic duct that you stick at the tip of the cone and run it to a fresh air section. I bet it does nothing for you, but I think i'll add it and put it at the fender right were the original box was.

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Originally Posted by Juanmiguel

pfft. I switched my home made intake to an open cone and I'll see how it works out for a while. I left the IAT sensor just hanging out there, hope it doesn't make any difference. I also removed the MAF screen, it always bothered me that it was there in the way acting like some kind of restriction/air heating device.

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I wedged my IAT sensor between the throttle cables and pushed it against the filter. Hasn't thrown any codes yet. I drove with mine disconnected the entire winter and it ran perfectly fine, so I wouldn't worry about that.

The purpose of the MAF screen is to even/spread out the air flow so the sensor can get an accurate reading. I'd put it back in if I were you.

the MAF screen does not restrict flow in any fasion and it helps the MAF to get correct readings, as J said. put it back in.

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Originally Posted by cleangtp

I don't know why aftermarket companies haven't made a kit to fit the front grill inserts with a ram.

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i know people that have knocked their grills out with a bird. that would suck...

just my 2 cents lol.

other than that, i'm pretty sure i've posted on something like this before. i might look for the thread

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Originally Posted by matt5112

So you want to direct the air away from the upper half of your rad which cools your engine to have SLIGHTLY cooler air than a ram air intake?

Have fun! :th_thumbsup-wink:

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Originally Posted by Poil336

i know people that have knocked their grills out with a bird. that would suck...

just my 2 cents lol.

other than that, i'm pretty sure i've posted on something like this before. i might look for the thread

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See above.

After taking the screen out of my GT, it didnt seem to change anything with the MAF reading. As far as MPG it actually helped it a touch.

With the cold air vs more air issue:

I am use to running forced induction on the 3.8L M90 Fords. The stock air box was kept up until going with 85mm Throttle Body. The stock setup acutally had great CFM ratings. I dont see the GP setup being any worse from a CFM flow difference. Before shooting off which is better those numbers would help make that choice. The change over from a 55mm to an 85MM TB collapsed the stock airbox hence the need for the open cone.

Using Meth injection cools the air temp and that's why I use it on my M90 at the same time the filter is placed in the best location for air temp not air flow. Both need to be considered, but answering what CFM your car's TB and heads can flow would better help decide on the location of the air filter.

Anyone have the CFM rating for the stock setup? How about with a K&N filter in the box? Put a Cone K&N in the box and see if it flows differently. Anyone tried this? Sure the cone filter would be restricted by the amount of air that could come into the box, but the hole could be made bigger without any issue.

Just tossing out suggestions to help get data behind the choices being made.

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Originally Posted by matt5112

See above.

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i know. but i hadn't read anything since like the second page. i decided i was going to be "that guy"

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Originally Posted by GreyGhost

After taking the screen out of my GT, it didnt seem to change anything with the MAF reading. As far as MPG it actually helped it a touch.

With the cold air vs more air issue:

I am use to running forced induction on the 3.8L M90 Fords. The stock air box was kept up until going with 85mm Throttle Body. The stock setup acutally had great CFM ratings. I dont see the GP setup being any worse from a CFM flow difference. Before shooting off which is better those numbers would help make that choice. The change over from a 55mm to an 85MM TB collapsed the stock airbox hence the need for the open cone.

Using Meth injection cools the air temp and that's why I use it on my M90 at the same time the filter is placed in the best location for air temp not air flow. Both need to be considered, but answering what CFM your car's TB and heads can flow would better help decide on the location of the air filter.

Anyone have the CFM rating for the stock setup? How about with a K&N filter in the box? Put a Cone K&N in the box and see if it flows differently. Anyone tried this? Sure the cone filter would be restricted by the amount of air that could come into the box, but the hole could be made bigger without any issue.

Just tossing out suggestions to help get data behind the choices being made.

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Its an intake.

There are much bigger things to worry about with these cars (namely quality of tune) than your intake.

i feel like when you need a bigger throttle body for air flow, you might be at the point for intercooling. and then you just need all the air you can get. same thing with meth injection. if you have a separate entity specifically for cooling the air, i don't think you need to worry about the initial intake temps

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Originally Posted by Poil336

i feel like when you need a bigger throttle body for air flow, you might be at the point for intercooling. and then you just need all the air you can get. same thing with meth injection. if you have a separate entity specifically for cooling the air, i don't think you need to worry about the initial intake temps

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Yes, it has an IC from a 2004 Ford F350 6.0 Diesel.

I was asking if we had information on the CFM of the stock Intake system. Facts on several issues on this site seem to lack. There are many opinions and that's great, but hard facts help explain things and raise other questions.

Just looking for information on what it flows or even what the "improved" systems flow. Any information would be appreciated.