Thread: battery/power help on a 98 GTP

I bought a battery and put it in car ran fine died a few days later took battery to be tested and the guy at autozone said it was defective and gave me a new one. Also had my alternator checked and it tested positive. Put the battery in the car and it ran good for about 7-10 days went to go start the car and it wouldn't start this morning.

Well my questions are

What are my chances of geting 2 defective batterys?

Are there any common problems that drain the battery?

My last question is my key is now stuck in my ignition and i can't get it out with the battery being dead and i can't get the car to shift out of park with my battery being dead. Is this normal or is there a problem with my ignition

yeah i have an aftermarked head unit and i use to have subs in but i took them out and unhooked the power wire before installing the second battery

lol lights are auto

update

Battery is good and i bought a volt pod gauge and hooked it up alternator is working great battery is at an constand 14volt at all times when car is on so i must have a drain on the battery. I drove the car for about two hrs today parked it went outside 2 hrs later and it was still at 12.5volts where it was at when i shut it off so any ideas?

Is it cold where you live?

The cold weather can drain a battery if it's been sitting.

Yeah it's starting to get cold out it's 30F-40F i live in Kenosha, Wi but it's a brand new 100.00 battery with a 3 year warinty. The gtp as of right now is my daily driver (camaros in the grage) i drive almost every day about 2 days MAX out of a month it don't get driven.

Parked the car around 6:15-6:20pm it was at 12.5v Just ran outside to look at the gauge at now at 1:52am nearly 8 hours later its at 12v which is not a big deal to me .5volts and it's cold out but now this don't make any sence to me at all i hate when dumb **** like this happens

take your meter while the car is off and see what the draw is(in amps or milli amps) you may just have a wire that is shot or something else that is drawing power that shouldnt be. You dont have anything plugged in to the cig lighter that is drawing while the car is off do you? Anyway, compare your draw to a vehicle that you know has no issues and see what the difference is. Start there.

Originally Posted by shawnz90

Yeah it's starting to get cold out it's 30F-40F i live in Kenosha, Wi but it's a brand new 100.00 battery with a 3 year warinty. The gtp as of right now is my daily driver (camaros in the grage) i drive almost every day about 2 days MAX out of a month it don't get driven.

Parked the car around 6:15-6:20pm it was at 12.5v Just ran outside to look at the gauge at now at 1:52am nearly 8 hours later its at 12v which is not a big deal to me .5volts and it's cold out but now this don't make any sence to me at all i hate when dumb **** like this happens

It's pretty funny, I went to start my car today, and sure enough it was dead.

Brand new battery from WALL-MART, not even 1 month old.

If it doesn't start tomorrow, I'm returning the battery.

My car was maybe sitting for 2 days, but weird things happen.

the other possibility is that they had a bad batch of batteries, and both of yours are bad and from the same group, unlikely, but possible

Lemme go check the voltage of mine... Haven't driven it since 6 last night.

12.06 V = 25% charge FYI

12.53 V was my number, checked my moms car which hasn't been driven since 9 last night; 12.70 V.

You have MASSIVE drainage if you're down to 12 V overnight. Either that or a bad battery.

Thanks for the numbers still have yet to go out and check it but i will update. Im confused with this. It's either a random drain because it work for weeks at a time or another bad battery. ughhh

voltage does not tell the whole story...amperage(draw) does...you can have high volts and if you dont have enough amps, you will not have enough power to make the motor turn over properly...this is why batteries are rated in cca and ca(cold cranking amps and cranking amps) dont go by voltage, get the proper amperage draw.

well i have updated post in same section

A fully charged battery should read 12.65V. And I would not trust any battery that didn’t charge to at least 12.5V

The beginning of this post sounded like a typical bad alternator. But it was tested, what ever that meant. I would check it myself after getting it warmed up and crank everything to get a nice amp load, and then see how it performs. Remember failing diodes tend to work cold, then not so well when they are hot.

No deff... not the alternator thats why i bought the volt gauge and the car reads constant 13.5-14volts while on at all times. My camaros alternator is starting to go out. Go figure this time i might buy a new one.

But back on topic i made a new thread whole new problem i think maybe caused from this one heres the link

http://www.grandprixforums.net/f81/w...yer-24400.html