Thread: overheating - loss of power

Originally Posted by dl1027

Well I only post that because you said you are a family man who is not swimming in money. The psi will always go up when you squirt oil in the cylinder. It did not go near normal. That means it's not a ring problem. Why spend so much trying to polish a turd?

Hey thanks for looking into that, your the first to let me know theirs no ring problem, I will forget the bottom end and do the head gasket's, I am this far into it, figured I might as well do both,with valve jobs, debating on wether to do the timing chain while im in here, its got 125k, don't know when the maintenance calls for timing chain replacement. I am not swimming in money, but I got a second car for a dd, so time is on my side anyway.

Well as hot as she got on freeway (didn't hit the red zone but stayed close)and the amount of time I had to drive before i could pull over I am suprised the uim didn't warp, straight edged everyway possible.




And also do you think this set is good enough from Autozone?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=51-0

Pulling rocker's and pushrods from rh head, first three were fine, some carbon build up om rod's, last 3 same except for tiny particles of metel sticking to pryushrod's is that normal ware after 125k.

Originally Posted by grand prix newb

Pulling rocker's and pushrods from rh head, first three were fine, some carbon build up om rod's, last 3 same except for tiny particles of metel sticking to pryushrod's is that normal ware after 125k.

One more thing are the valves suppose to be flush w/head, cause it does look like a couple stick out a tiny,tiny bit, I thought the springs were suppose to keep them flush with the head, if you rub your finger across you can feel the valves sticking out, possibly causing compression reading's. Hopefully just sticky valves and not worn springs.

Originally Posted by grand prix newb

One more thing are the valves suppose to be flush w/head, cause it does look like a couple stick out a tiny,tiny bit, I thought the springs were suppose to keep them flush with the head, if you rub your finger across you can feel the valves sticking out, possibly causing compression reading's. Hopefully just sticky valves and not worn springs.

You allways see people viewing, but you rarely get any answer's, oh well here is a way to tell wether or not my ring's are ok.
I filled known bad cylinder with new oil around 5 pm yesterday, 2 hours later still full to the brim, and 13 hour's later (this morning) I checked it and it only leaked down maybe a centimeter.So rings shoul be in good shape.

Originally Posted by grand prix newb

You allways see people viewing, but you rarely get any answer's, oh well here is a way to tell wether or not my ring's are ok.
I filled known bad cylinder with new oil around 5 pm yesterday, 2 hours later still full to the brim, and 13 hour's later (this morning) I checked it and it only leaked down maybe a centimeter.So rings shoul be in good shape.

Hey anybody got the one head gasket for sale. suppose I could buy the gasket kit and have an extra head gasket nevermind I see they do sell head gaskets seperatly
is this one you would buy, or is there a better one you recomend.
Fel-Pro 9917 PT - Head Gasket 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix | O'Reilly Auto Parts

And do you know what this vacume hose is called that's hooked up to throttle body. looks like I just have to buy the tee that the lines plug into.

ive looked at all parts stores for that rubber T, none of the assorted T boot packs i found had anything that would even come close to working.... prob gonna be a dealership item.

Its the switch, if I tap on it It will start, I will take the switch apart this weekend and clean all the contact parts, I paid $89.00 for a new one, but took it back once I seen they can be dissembled and fixed.

Originally Posted by grand prix newb

Its the switch, if I tap on it It will start, I will take the switch apart this weekend and clean all the contact parts, I paid $89.00 for a new one, but took it back once I seen they can be dissembled and fixed.

ok new switch, power steering pump, everything seems to be going good, except my trip computer I have to drive about 35 miles on freeway b4 it will say 31-32 mpg, does it really take that long to get that milage. power doesn't seem as strong as it was b4 head work, still got good power just seems like it doesn't get up as fast as it did b4, I didn't re test compression after head work, so I will start there. OH may be a vac leak somewhere also, i notice engine shakes a little at idle sometimes.

Originally Posted by FordMan77

That vac leak could be the cause of your low power. Get that fixed and see what you get. Also may want to clean the MAF and then reset the ECU (disconnect the battery for 30 min or so). Then take it for a drive to let it relearn everything.

Thanks I did replace maf sensor last month. 137.00 +80.00 core charge, maf cleaner worked for a bit.
I may have only had battery disconected for 15-20 minutes, I will disconect tonight, no at work today and set for while.
I have to got to a dealer and get this T/hose set up and hope that is the vac leak.

also need the fuel sending unit cause my gauge always jumps to full when it is low.
Thanks again bud