Brake pads are completely done and I have switch them out ASAP. Any tips ??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk![]()
|
Get some caliper grease and ensure the pins are clean, then lube them up, you want the caliper to be able to slide easily w/o dirt etc.
Loosen the master cylinder cap and do one caliper at a time.
Clean the slides very well and use brake lube on the ends of the pads where they meet the slides. PROPER TORQUE on all fasteners, loc-tite on caliber bracket bolts if you remove them. And make sure to burp any air out of the rubber boots on the guide pins.
When putting calipers back on, slide bottom on first line bolt hole up then bring the top in. This will save you time and hassle.
Don't paint the entire brake rotor with red paint
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Are you turning the rotors?
I've heard turning rotors is money better spent on new rotors. If they are warped, removing more material by having them turned will cause the to warp more easily and you're back to square one. Just buy new rotors or don't have them turned if they are fine. Just my opinion.
Well turn or replace is fine with me. Turning is cheaper if you can find a place to do it any more (which is a huge challenge actually) and you have enough meat left.
I also spend money on nicer rotors and don't buy the cheap ones, so turning has more of a benefit for me. If you buy the cheapest rotors out there and don't mind replacing them, that's up to you - but I find it cheaper to turn. 6 vs. 1/2 dozen.
I was only concerned because he hadn't mentioned anything at all about the rotors, as long as something is being done then I'm happy. Just make sure that you get ALL of the oil/preservative off of the rotor face.
It's also worth googling how to break in your brakes, they will work better and last longer.
-BC
p.s. many "warped" rotors apparently just have uneven material buildup and are dimensionally fine, as you'll see when you google the break-in process...
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |