My pedal is nowhere as stiff as our impalas. Will do.
Also eliminating the pointless rubber section of the LF line
Done
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My pedal is nowhere as stiff as our impalas. Will do.
Also eliminating the pointless rubber section of the LF line
Done
![]()
Last edited by 02NavyBlue; 07-03-2015 at 06:49 PM.
Did this, wasn't too far off after outer tie rod install.
And bought some of this.....excellent stuff
Also got some Turtle Wax trim coating for 2.75 at Oreillys, I'll use on my tires. It is basically the same as the tire coating.
Trim coating on the left and tire coating on right.
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Well I wouldn't use wash and wax anywhere for grime but for a dust covered car, yeah no prob. It doesn't take much.
I just ordered some Meguiars D114 for rinseless, when I don't want anything left behind before a sealant re-coat.
I normally use Optimum no rinse wash & wax for rinseless.
I'll be using it more for these daily pollen layers more then anything. Anything past that I'll just do a normal wash.
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It blew my mind when I found out high end show cars only get wet in unexpected rain. Everybody uses dusters and / or those qwik wash squirt products. My junk sits out and gets hailed on so I feel like a Martian among that crowd.
Betty came back with some serious dirt on her (mud road, no splash shield... imagine door jamb) and one tie rod is bent still. Soon as I feel enough better, I'll get started bringing her back to a daily car. Went around two sick people and think I caught both things. Plus today was 13th day in a row of waking up via alarm and jamming into gear for a hard run. I'm whooped. Any of you want to stomp my ass, nows the time lol. Better hurry though, just had a nap.
Sisters new ride, bracket is rubbing on both front rotors causing squeaks, fixing that tomorrow, axles have vomited all there grease everywhere, leaky oil pan by the looks of it, needs brakes. Otherwise its supa clean
And first use of zip ties
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Day 2 of brake stuff. Say no to compression fittings.
Found one more
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Got A/C back, in the GT. Next: oil change, headlights think they are in eternal darkness (yes DRL disabled), driver's window has a mind of it's own. Changed regulators before turning it over to a friend for frame repair and it worked flawlessly until they used it. Then it went down and not back up so they had to keep it inside for a month or two. Then it went up and would not open to drive home once the A/C leaked out. Perfect. I drove it for 4 years with a regulator that would only move it about 2" at a time and would have been better off to leave it in there. Was trying to avoid friend having a problem but as it turns out thats all I heard about "Whats wrong with that window?" Have a new one now so F it, its going in.
Then its on to adjusting or replacing a tie rod, alignment maybe. Then getting all the sand out of the driver's door hinges, peeling old ventshade tape and getting a new pair, and hunting up one fat five in good shape, doing something about the hood and bumper looks, getting that flappy passenger seat outta there and seeing if my 02 AD mirror connects.
With 30K less miles on it, its a no-brainer to make this the DD. Seriously don't miss the huffer much driving it, theres very few situations where NA won't do.
Having a fever on a party holiday sucks. Barking dogs and fireworks started at 6AM in the hood, subwoofers will go til about 4-5 AM tonite so no healing rest this weekend. Fug. No day off work, and was denied my BD off too even after early request. Cornered animal instincts are kicking up again.
My luck changed a little, that window reg plug was just loose at the motor. Reckon I was in a hurry before. Never opened the new so back it went. I am appreciating the fresher brakes and mounts, tint, amp, and working gas gauge!
Bros 2004 Forester XT had a crapped drivers window motor.
$60 on Amazon or 101 at Advance. Got it out, took it apart and cleaned armature/housing with plumbers screen/wd-40/PBblaster.
A little dielectric grease for lube and works like a champ.
No more rust grit and corrosion jamming it.
Those with a weak stomach, skip this post.
Got my brake lines in and will bleed tomorrow when I get more brake fluid.
Until then I've been examining rust areas. Fenders and rockers today. Well the fenders are only starting so those can be saved and rust proofed. The rockers are basically gone, surprise surprise. I took the side skirts off finally, stabbed any weak areas with a screwdriver, and took the garden hose and flushed what seemed like a couple pounds of dirt and rust out. Did it a bunch of times til no more came out. Dried with a blow gun, and it will air dry until tomorrow. Then I'll grease whatever is left. And blow oil through the parts I cannot get with a brush. OK so pics
Drivers side is worse
Drivers fender
Stupid things hold saltwater. Bye.
Passenger side
There used to be rocks here, so much rust covered it all up.
Thats only like a dry heave or oopsie puke into mouth from burp, not a full on barf out. LOL. No, thats serious Blue. The question is.. does it bother you in the least?
I ran Betty's left outer tie rod end out 3 turns, it helped. Need about that much more again, or tie rod swap. Oh yeah and I forgot the sway link was gone on that side but store was already closed. Dadgum fever still hangin on so I'm missin the dronks' fireworks party.
If you can't see it and its not hurting anything yet, then oh well. I'm just gonna make it last as long as I can.
There ya go! The only way to get all the value out of these things is to drive it out. Wonder why it had so many brake line splices? Your new whoa should keep you outta trouble. I'm fairly satisfied with oh, 50MPH or less stops on stock junk but boy yer right about the highway speed braking, its poor.
Found a few minutes to get my "delay on" relay installed for the fog lights.....
Had to take off, so still have to mount it (tucked in behind the headlight for now). Works great; set with a 4 second delay. Now the fog light switch can stay on if I choose.
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