Thread: What did you do to your car today? Vol 2.0

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

they only get better feeling as the miles add up. hard to believe that they could get better the next day, but they do for the first 500 miles.

Good to know. How well has your zinc plating held up? ...If yours has it.

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if the car sits for a long time where the pads touch will get surface rust, other then that, not a spot of rust is to be seen.

sat for a month when my tranny let go.

RIP turkey.....

^^^^ The next step is pre-heat your oven to 375*.......lol

HA! I'm leaving the feather there. Give the minivan a little character.

Chizzled ice of her. Thought I broke a Piaa wiper blade but apparently they are designed to come apart the way it did. I did not know that. LOL

Busted my ass installing a bunch of black friday parts with my buddy. Most of the time was spent installing the IC and heat exchanger... what a fking pain in the ass. Breaking parts doesn't help either.

Also tossed in a sway bar, plog, fuel filter, thicker rad, ported LIM. Ported S/C still to come.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Don't have a weak battery then or remove the key. Or it's a switch problem, removing the key cuts the power to the engine/acc.

I've never had that issue with the 2006, 2010 and 2012 trucks I've owned. I've pulled the fuel pump fuse on many GM trucks to run the rail dry, then crank them until I wanted them to stop. Removing the key always stops the starter.

Just had a 2012 hyundai sonata come in the shop because it wouldn't start, it has a keyless system, so obviously a pcm controlled starter signal. Starter was bad, we put a new one in. Go to start it, it tried to turn then stopped. Thought that was weird, got out, looked under the hood, and then it tried again all by itself, a click and the lights dim. They stay dim for like 5 seconds then smoke starts pouring out from the starter, as it's still trying to crank. The thing was in meltdown mode. My boss had this job so I'm not sure what he did first to try and stop it, not sure if he ran back into the car and pressed the button or pulled the battery terminal first. Button might not have done anything with the battery draining down that far. All in all the motor was locked right up and that happened.

I really hate overly electronic controlled vehicles. I guess I've found a sweet spot in vehicles and electronics. From 96-02 ish was the best time period for cars based off how much electrical stuff is in them, imo.


Also here's a diagram for my 06's ignition. The switch positions are just signals, not actual current carrying switches. So I don't believe it cuts power from the engine or accessories when turned back, it just tells the bcm what you did, if it is able to respond is another thing. Unbelievable how different 97-03 is from 04+ lol. I didn't realize before buying mine for sure.


Also here's a diagram of the BCM, crazy how much goes through it instead of just a switch and relay.
http://i.imgur.com/77K8vgn.png

Here's a 01 GP: http://i.imgur.com/5FYJqL1.png
Much less lol

SUX!!! Everyone O.K.? Guilty party insured, at least?

Originally Posted by Below Average Joe

RIP turkey.....

The damage doesn't look like much, but was quoted just over $2500 to fix it. Glad i have good insurance.

Most V6 sound horrible with drone and resonance with performance exhaust, I imagine straight pipe would be awful.

I've wondered what it would sound like if you poked holes in the stock muff baffles. Like hammer a long pry bar at different angles up the muff. exit? (That sounds oddly pornographic?) Or if someone(maybe me someday) ran 2 Thrush glass packs instead of a res. and a muff.?

Is there any specific reason why a car would be running rich after a ported LIM and full stack intercooler install? Do you have to adjust anything in the tune? There is also a new fuel rail on it, but I got the regulator pressure to around 44psi at idle with vacuum connected. Also put new injector o-rings in so I'm pretty sure they aren't leaking. PCV is fully functional (external).

LTFT was originally -20 or lower, but fuel rail pressure was too high (58psi idle). I got that down to a normal level but it's still hitting up to -13 when accelerating.

if you have a tuner you can adjust the trims, if you went smaller then a 3.4 you'll need larger injectors cause a 3.2 will about max the stock ones. and you should be able to get to a 3.1 or 3.0.

Fuel out here in cali is pure ****ing trash. 91 octane with additives that can blow me. e85 too far away to use.

Even on 3.6 pulley with dp and plog I was getting 3-4 kr, low timing.

So now with the IC I'm safely on a 3.3. I'm going to throw timing at it and see how much room I have left. I really don't think cali fuel will support a 3.2.