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Best lug nuts ever are the factory ones on my Stealth. I've never destroyed one, never stripped one, and they still look great 21 years later.
As for GM lug nuts, if the ones originally on my car when I bought it were OEM GM, then they can lick my nuts, because they SUCK.
i do, them acorn lug nuts came on my 70 bird. the end/ covers used to be loose all the time. if you put them on a stud that was to long you blew the end off the lug nut too.Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
my 97 gmc came with them too. as soon as i got wheels i got the new lugs.
Those Rally wheel nuts had a stamped stainless cover over a plain open steel nut. The covers would split with an impact, then cut your finger trying to pull it off. With or without the cover, the size was never very exact. Usually replaced with chromies.
Speaking of stainless... and it sounds like anti-seize on lugs has been thoroughly covered before and that everyone has their opinion. But where I learned my leeson about anti-sieze is at the hot rod shop. All the dress up stainless fasteners are pretty (I hate button heads) but if screwed into steel without anti-sieze / anti-gall... well you might install the fastener but chances are the threads will rip out when you take it out, if its real tight or been together a long time. Of course I had to learn this on a body mount with a poly-lock nut on it. The moral of the story is:
Its not just for rusty or potentially rusty threads, its also for where unlike metals meet. Search galvanic corrosion if this is news. Steel bolt going into aluminum part? yep. Stainless screwing into steel or iron? Yep. If not, under pressure the hard metal can kinda grab and smear the soft part, thats galling. Most lug nuts are steel and wheels aluminum so it may not always be the threads making trouble. Thats all.
Matt your turn for the full inbox
Then you remember beauty rings too. Man, we've come a long way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
Ha. Should be clear now Tim.Quote:
Originally Posted by spazzz
I had beauty rings on my Monza. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
It's not really the lugnuts as much as it is the studs. When I worked at the dealership, it was mandatory to brush on some wheel bearing grease on Toyota studs cause those fvckers would get rusty in no time. I do like the studs GM uses tho cause I've hardly had issues with seizing and I could be wrong but I think GM's studs are nickel coated.
Going to attempt to rebuild my ebcm today, wish me luck
Good luck buddy.. holler when it heads south.
I drove it.. I really like this car.
Thanks bill if that was directed towards me, I feel pretty good. I have to get in and see if the relay is damaged but I think its just the solder joints failing. abs will still kick on just randomly when lights disappear and come back.
What car?
Regal.. cause Regals are the best W body going.
They have there tendencies like transported old people from point a to b lmao
Ask me at 260K if my EBCM every messed up :th_nanana:
I used to use it on my trucks when I had them, as they saw nasty conditions. Don't use it on the cars lugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
installed new radiator and trans cooler. radiator cracked over the winter months and been wanting a cooler for a while now ,jimmy
Just send the damn thing in to get repairedQuote:
Originally Posted by jteske88
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This. I investigated self repair on them and there's some kind of goop on the circuity, along with super small and highly sensitive solder joints. I decided to not even try and send it in. That, and I didn't have a mill or dremel at the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by REDCOMPG
Worth letting someone who knows how to do it for $50-100 plus you'll get a warranty. Had mine back within a few days. Not worth attempting yourself and screwing it up.. Then sending it in with hopes that they can repair your screw up. A lot of wasted time too.
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lol JL4 is all I have to say about that(forrest gump voice)Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37