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Cleaned the inside of the windshield, wiped down the dash and interior, replaced right rear 194 LED.
my friends brother has been asking me to do his brakes for two weeks now, but with working, whos got time for that crap lol
well we came in a bit early, a pad swap dont take to long, lets get it done i told him.
i pop off the pass side tire to inspect the brakes, and send him to the store, in my mind im gonna have both calipers off and waiting for him to come back.
WRONG!!!
he had new tires installed, someone went all johnny nascar on the driver side lug nuts. i bent/ twisted my cross bar, then cracked two sockets, yes a 4 foot pipe was used. the lugs fought the whole way off. one lug had the treads rolling out of it, and another one would not break free. told him to get the tire shop to remove it. of course the tire shop says they didnt do that,,,,you touched it last, you dd it. even one of the workers said this crap happens all the time, not 2 minutes after the owner said this never happens lol
30 minutes later im finishing his brakes, how does a 20 minute pad swap take like 1.5 hours? f ing blow me. there went my early day out of work.......:th_shakinghead2:
Sounds all too familiar Scotty. I went OFF on the tire shop that did my mom's tires. I destroyed a lug nut trying to get it off. I told my mom to take it back to them to get it taken care of. They tried to claim they didn't do it, blah, blah, blah. Said they don't put them on that tight, but when they had to use a special socket with a breaker bar and a 6ft cheater pipe and the lug nut made a loud POP when it broke loose they changed their tune and apologized.
Just curious- does anybody use anti-sieze on lug studs?
I also mainly did unto others' vehicles today. Arm hurt so bad this AM didn't think I'd make it. But I did. First thing I touched had a 1/4" metal sliver hiding where I grabbed it so ALL the way into the tip on my index finger that went. Hurt worse coming out. I won though, end of the day my sticky project had been conquered. I don't know where anybody gets the idea that aftermarket body parts for 45 year old cars can just be painted right out of the box then handed to a bodyman to zip onto the car, but that situation is constantly repeating. Put a lot of pressure on a bodyman to do magic tricks. It was a 69 Nova fenders and doors this time. If I see it at a show, I'll walk the other way.
i used to use anti-sieze on both my trucks. the fronts didnt really need it but the rear lugs would get crusty from dipping them in salt water 4 times a week launching and taking the boat out of the water.
I do, cheap insurance
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yep since I started using open end nuts.
I use it at work religiously on mech and body stuff, not so religious about it on my own cars. I use a four-way at home. Either way, I figure at the very least apply it to new threads before first use. I have some idea how long between wheel removals mine will be but a customer might leave them on five years and with my luck want me to take them off.
I use it on just about every nut and bolt I remove. Half the bolts come out rusty on old cars in the salt belt. It SUCKS when subframe bolts break, they always get badly rusted. It weakens the bolt pretty badly. They get the wire wheel until shiny, and the entire length of it (even the unthreaded portion) coated.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...1a8d1141f8.jpg
I know I've said this many times before, but in my eyes anti sieze is the worst thing you want on your lug nuts.
I will never in my life put that **** on lug nuts, thats the last thing I want coming off. Don't be an idiot when putting lug nuts on and use a damn torque wrench set to 100 ft lbs and you'll never have a problem. I've changed thousands of tires at work an never have this issue.
The worst is when ****ing walmart or some **** gobs that crap on there and then you zing it off with a gun without knowing and it just goes flying all over the rim and you grab with your hands. And that **** doesnt just wipe off, I'll wipe on theirs tires just because that stuff pisses me off.
I can see for scott where it makes sense though, but he does his own work. Salt water is bad news on some things.
It IS messy!
And ****, I dont even put that on rusty bolts I put back on cars. Spray the holes down with foamy rust lube or PB blaster and zip the bolt back into place.
Only certain times will I just order new bolts for certain jobs. Call me a hack sometimes but time is money sometimes and if they let the cars get that bad, whats makes me think they will ever change.
I don't personally use it on lug nuts, GM seems to make the best lug nuts, pretty tough and coated very well. Never had one get stuck. Plus a lot of them have caps that keep water out. It's those crappy 90's to mid 2000's Chrysler lug nuts that suck, they always seize on aluminum rims and they're so thin, they're just garbage. Then they are 2 piece so the outer part comes off in your socket, and it's now an 18mm lug nut. We only use antiseize on lug studs at work if the lug nuts are a problem. If only 1 stud is rusted and hard to spin the nut over, just that one stud gets antiseized. Can't risk it at work. Brake caliper/caliper bracket bolts never get antiseized either. Most other bolts will if they are rusty or likely to become rusty. It is messy but I try to keep it clean, never works out though lol.
i snapped off more then one stud. even the dealer snapped one off for me. soon after that i started to use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch
for what ever reason 12 bolt full floating rear ends put a crap load of heat into the tires and wheels. i think that heat also has a lot to do with the back lugs locking on. i was also using sealed 3 inch chrome lug nuts. no water was getting in them.
This!Quote:
Originally Posted by spazzz
Never used it when I ran stock wheels and lugs but once I went opened ended I starting adding a smudge.
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I LOVE chysler/dodge 21mm lug nuts and the 22mm. They just swell to the next size and you can never get them off. Spend 30 minutes with a hammer just to pound a bigger socket on them and takes forever to get the lug nut out. I'll tell the customer that I will not take their wheels off unles they buy 20/24 new lug nuts.
Oh, and kia/hyundai 21mm lug nuts, those will cross thread jus looking at them. ****ing minivans are the worst, the studs are too soft and when a impact hit them just right all they do is twist.
OK, who remembers the stamped-cover GM rally wheel nuts? Those were fun.
Not me lol I'm sure old man Scotty Regal does though lol
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I dont work on many imports, but I know exactly what you mean by the dodge 21's in like 2002 and up. Rust builds between the two is my guess, I always go for the 22 now. Either way the nut gets stuck in the socket. 21 because its now too tight, and 22 because its one size too large and doesn't hit the right spot of the nut. Gm wins for lug nuts, bottom line.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch