Thread: Negotiating in a Used Car

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  1. #21 Negotiating in a Used Car 
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    In and out that's the name of the game when it comes to rental. A quick wash and quick vacuum of the interior and bam out the door it goes to the next owner. Most of the time they do a sorry job of doing those 2 things especially when it comes to cloth seats you can tell when they been abused.
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  2. #22 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
    Moderator Russosaur's Avatar
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    Uhauls you can usually get the front end of the ground on the older ones if you do it right. If anyone wanted to know.

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  3. #23 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
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    Case in point
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  4. #24 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russosaur View Post
    Uhauls you can usually get the front end of the ground on the older ones if you do it right. If anyone wanted to know.

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    only if its old with blown springs and a manual shift with a low creeper gear. lol those are some of the worst trucks ive ever driven.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  5. #25 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
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    I was thinking more along the lines of urban jumping ... are you saying they can wheelie?!
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  6. #26 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    not wheelie, but hop the front wheels off the ground lol you know the old floor it and time the bounce with the next flooring of the gas, by the 3 rd time the wheels should lift a few inches, or feel real light lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #27 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
    Donating Users Dboy23's Avatar
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    I might be able to help you here, especially considering that unlike most people that commented I own and operate a used car dealership. First let me start by saying you'll always want a Carfax history report. Don't expect the Carfax to have everything on there but it's a good place to start narrowing down cars. If a car has an accident depending on what/where it is and how well the repair was documented I would fee 100% confident buying a car that was hit taking those points into consideration.

    Also I saw that you mentioned that the vehicle was a rental. Back to the Carfax like I said because I HIGHLY doubt that almost any rental place would have a GXP on their lot. Also contrary to popular belief rental companies do actually maintain their vehicles very well. They have a lot of liability if something happens to you because the vehicle wasn't kept up properly so they do fluid changes, brake changes, and tire changes A LOT more often then me or you as a consumer would.

    I agree with the point someone made to ask to take the vehicle to be inspected by someone local to the dealership and if they don't allow that I agree that you should walk right out. If you do take a vehicle to a mechanic please remember that just like any other business they're there to make money, so a lot of times they will tell you stuff "will need to be replaced eventually" which means that they'll charge you to do it even though it's not necessary at that time.

    Also keep in mind that KBB and NADA are reference points and 9 times out of 10 are VERY inaccurate. I would also suggest getting a vehicle from a used car dealership that has no affiliation with a new car dealership because typically they're more willing to haggle and have quite a bit less mark-up than new car dealers have. Usually if you want to get a fair price I would suggest going on Autotrader or Cars.com and search for comparable vehicles within 100-200 miles to see what they are going for.

    Someone also mentioned that a dealership's markup is $3,000-4,000 and that is completely untrue. Most dealerships markup is 15-20% and on a $10,000 that is about half of what that person said. Also keep in mind that dealerships are in business to make money, so if you go in expecting to pay what they paid for the vehicle or less you are going to be let down. Not sure if this was mentioned but if you need to get financing I would HIGHLY suggest you do so before even going to look at any vehicles because that gives you a bit of an upper hand.

    If I missed anything I will post it later and if you have any other questions just ask!
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  8. #28 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
    GTX Level Member Neil98gt's Avatar
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    My dad's car was a previous rental. 06 GP he bought it in 06 with 27k on the odometer.

    I was worried about it being a rental car that got abused, I was really worried about the transmission...

    But now with 160k on the clock it runs great and has had no major problems.


    But that's completely different from a GXP rental... I can imagine those were beat on even more than base model cars
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  9. #29 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
    I live here. theaceofspades's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    I like to bring the King with me

    Cash
    Gas monkey only deals in cash!!
    Quote Originally Posted by theaceofspades View Post
    I now own a stance car parts I just like them DICKS
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  10. #30 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
    Donating Users NotEnoughGPs's Avatar
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    All the GP's I've owned I made the purchases with cash. Figured I've saved thousands from not having to pay interest charges. When buying an item like a car, it's best not to make payments since a car will not ever be worth more years from now, no matter how many mods have been done to it.
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  11. #31 Re: Negotiating in a Used Car 
    Moderator Russosaur's Avatar
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    The thing is mods actually diminish the value of the car depending on whos looking at it and whats been done.

    Sent from the Milky Way
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