Why would more pressure be applied to one brake rotor?

[traildog]

I replaced 3 out of 4 calipers, all rotors and pads, but the wheel with the old caliper has a shiney rotor and the other 3 rotors look rusty...

I also have a squishy brake pedal after bleeding the brakes thoroughly.

What the heck?

[traildog]

I had a thought......Scary I know......Maybe I should remove the old caliper, compress it completely, and reinstall it......

[231FUN]

I had a thought......Scary I know......Maybe I should remove the old caliper, compress it completely, and reinstall it......

I'd pull the caliper slide pins on the old one and clean and relubricate them if you havn't done so already aswell.

[traildog]

Yea, did that and replaced the boots. Could it be that the piston isn't retracting as much as the new ones?

[fastassgt]

Kzjicjic

Sent from my SCH-S738C

[fastassgt]

Sorry

Sent from my SCH-S738C

[Scottydoggs]

a bad rubber hose can cause the caliper to hang up some.

what caliper is dragging? a front or rear? does it have the f body upgrade for front brakes? should have done it if it dont. i love my F bodys brakes. stop on a dime and give back change.

[ChrisL]

Sounds like you have air in the line/calipers that were replaced.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[indygrandprix]

Does the car pull under braking? Sounds like air in the lines. Just cause fluid comes out doesn't mean all the air is out.

[traildog]

I'm going to try bleeding them again.
The car stops nice and straight. No weird pulling.

The caliper that seems to be applying the most pressure is the only one I didn't replace. It's the left rear.

[Scottydoggs]

if bleeding dont fix it up, maybe its just the pads need to wear down some. after a few days it should stop.

seen a member who had the same problem, left rear, was a bad rubber hose to the caliper.

[indygrandprix]

If you could take a picture of the "rusty" rotors vs the shiny ones that may also help.

Unless you paint them all rotors will rust around the "hat". The area that the pads apply pressure to will normally get rust spots after it rains but even under light braking the rust is quickly removed. If your car where to only be applying pressure to the rear left your stopping distance would be greatly increased.

[Logan541]

could it be a proportioning vavle?

[traildog]

Yea, the rusty "hat" and calipers are UGLY.

The brakes only have 150 or so miles on them, so, I'm going to run them a few more before I tear into them.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[traildog]

So, the rotors seem to have the same, or close to the same amount of pressure being applied.

That's the good part.

The bad part is that the pedal is still kind of squishy.

The car stops fine though.

[Scottydoggs]

if your sure the lines are clear of air.

try bleeding the master. pump the brakes up like you would for a caliper, but crack the line nut off the master. wrap a rag around the wrench and nut, its gonna spray some fluid out. lock the line nut back down before the pedal pusher lets the pedal back up. repeat. if theres air you'll hear it.

[traildog]

Thanks, I'll try that tonight.

[Scottydoggs]

if the master got low on fluid while bleeding, the master gets air, it dont even have to be all the way dry to get air in it, just low enough.

the abs lines would be next if it keeps up after the master bleeding.

[traildog]

You may have nailed it. I guarantee the master got low on fluid.

[Scottydoggs]

You may have nailed it. I guarantee the master got low on fluid.

yeah its small, 5 pumps of full pedal bleeding and its getting low. filling calipers it gets sucked low real fast lol

if you hear air out the line nut. ( or if the pedal gets firmer) re bleed the rest of the brakes, rr, rl, then the rf then the drivers side front last.