Thread: How to wire subs?

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    Why bother doing all of that with the remote wire as opposed to simply connecting it to the harness of his aftermarket headunit?

    Why not use a seatbelt bolt with paint removed around the contact area as a ground point?

    Why use distribution blocks when gauge reducers are readily available?

    Why would he set his system up for the most "stability" and "punch" and then tune it by ear?

    Idk, just seems odd to me. I don't understand you bass-heads anyway.

    OP, do yourself a favor www.knukonceptz.com awesome wire for great prices.
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    Last edited by Fatboy501; 09-24-2013 at 03:10 AM.
    1978 F250 2wd (460 c.i.d. / C6)- soon to give up the powerplant to an '80-'86 F150
    White 2000 Grand Prix GT coupe
    One still slow and loud... other one scoots just a bit.

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  2. #2 Re: How to wire subs? 
    GXP Level Member Timing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatboy501 View Post
    Why bother doing all of that with the remote wire as opposed to simply connecting it to the harness of his aftermarket headunit?

    Why not use a seatbelt bolt with paint removed around the contact area as a ground point?

    Why use distribution blocks when gauge reducers are readily available?

    Why would he set his system up for the most "stability" and "punch" and then tune it by ear?

    Idk, just seems odd to me. I don't understand you bass-heads anyway.

    OP, do yourself a favor www.knukonceptz.com awesome wire for great prices.
    Sent from my A200 using Tapatalk 4
    Go threw trouble of running it into fuse box? cus thats hard....

    Seatbelt bolt, sheet metal screw, strut mount wtf ever, there are better ways though

    Hack. The correct way would be a block with a fuse reducing the wire down because the wire can corrode like you see on your battery terminals. Fact is you dont want to put it directly into the amp by trimming wire like i have seen many do.

    Because his first setup i dont think hes going to pull out a multimeter and what not to tune his car when he hardly knows how to setup in the first place.

    anything else?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ginseng View Post
    Go threw trouble of running it into fuse box? cus thats hard....

    Seatbelt bolt, sheet metal screw, strut mount wtf ever, there are better ways though

    Hack. The correct way would be a block with a fuse reducing the wire down because the wire can corrode like you see on your battery terminals. Fact is you dont want to put it directly into the amp by trimming wire like i have seen many do.

    Because his first setup i dont think hes going to pull out a multimeter and what not to tune his car when he hardly knows how to setup in the first place.

    anything else?
    Easier to go to the back of the headunit with the RCAs since he will already be back there.

    Seatbelt bolt is easier than making a new hole.

    Lmao gauge reducers are a hack? I guess ring terminals are bad to be on wire too then. Come to think of it, those pesky dual input blocks for amplifiers must be a hack too. Lmao. Distribution blocks are only NEEDED to distribute the power from one run to multiple runs, thus the name. I didn't suggest trimming it and shoving it in. Fuses are debatable, but I tend to use them. I don't fancy burning my car down.

    How about pointing him to a source telling him how to set his amp with a DMM instead of assuming what he will and won't do? DMM is simple, and they're cheap... not as expensive or unusual as an oscilloscope. Why not attempt to educate someone who is new to audio on ways to have their equipment last long? "Usually 3/4 gain" is an incredibly ignorant statement, especially since not all headunits have the same RCA output voltage. Kudos for at least advising against bass boost.

    OP, I suggest you do a little reading on an audio forum and educate yourself just a bit on how to set the amps and read a bit about clipping if you haven't already. I recommend www.caraudioclassifieds.org, or get in touch with 1800COLLECT here on the forums. He's pretty knowledgeable.

    That about covers it Mr. Audio Knowledge lmao.


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    Last edited by Fatboy501; 09-24-2013 at 02:27 PM.
    1978 F250 2wd (460 c.i.d. / C6)- soon to give up the powerplant to an '80-'86 F150
    White 2000 Grand Prix GT coupe
    One still slow and loud... other one scoots just a bit.

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