Torn between ubend delete or 2.5" dp, rather not lose any low end if possible which is why the ubend delete is what im thinking unless i can find a dp for under 75
Printable View
Torn between ubend delete or 2.5" dp, rather not lose any low end if possible which is why the ubend delete is what im thinking unless i can find a dp for under 75
Aw cm'on... It takes me a couple years to save $200 but I did... for the 2.5 DP w/cat and U-bend delete. factory flex joint sux almost as bad as the u-bend. I use an emulator. Ran that 2.5" on my GT about a year then swapped it onto the GTP. 2.5 is right for the GT, you won't lose bottom end you'll gain on top from that and the u-bend delete. When you go S/C it won't hurt ya, mine has rippy low end with one but I'm all the stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
any one know anything about this code? c1276 - delivered torque signal circuit malfunction its a abs code.
so got my new master bolted on the the spare abs pump, then swapped the while thing out. bleed the master and abs pump, then went to the shop who last did my abs re home BS. he no longer has a snap on scanner that works and now has a aultel. good for European cars, not so much for domestic. so he cant re home it no more.
now to find a shop, 5 shops later no one has a tech 2 or snap on. im ready to pack it in but i stop at the shop across the street from me. guy has a snap on scanner. he hands it to me, and says have fun lol cool. i figure it all out, re home it fails, so clear the codes, it then fails again saying codes present. in the end i got the abs to re home, but i do believe this code i pulled is why my abs light comes on some times.
good news is, i now have a place i can go get free abs scans and stuff.
oh, and if any one is familiar with a snap on scanner, do you have any clue how to get to the steering settings. i tried to find it but came up short. the new rack is set to firm, i want it to turn like butter again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
ill sell you my U bend delete for 30 shipped. its all welded up, only thing its missing is a o2 bung. those can be added easy enough.
ABS pump running when not needed is the general thing a google search came up on that code. You have anything that will show wheel speeds while driving? If so drive around with someone watching for consistency across all 4, might be a bearing or a connection to a bearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
the t app does show wheel speed for each wheel. i saw one thing saying low voltage can cause this, and my battery is about dead, but this was tripped while the car was parked just after the abs was homed. it was the only code that kept coming back after clearing it, and trying to re home the abs. re home would fail cause the code set that fast. after 20 tries it took.
Look like Google failed me, let me look into it more. Is your Boost Bypass solenoid hooked up?
http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_delphi_dbc7.htm
Quote:
C1276 Delivered torque signal circuit (serial data problem)
Looking into it more....
yup, all thats hooked up. im still searching too. thanks for looking around.
Drove with the wife to the mall today and saw this..... I'm really surprised I didn't see Tyler there...
http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/...319_134141.jpg
http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/...319_134158.jpg
http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/...319_134211.jpg
I'm sure you'd like this pic the best Tyler lol
http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/...319_134243.jpg
I seen something about a LF ABS solenoid with possible damaged wires for it? but thats going off of "justanswer" which seems kinda sketchy.
Also thats badass hes let you do it haha
It's looking like it's the battery drain. Wouldn't hurt to check all your grounds and such. If it comes back it might be the EBTCM, the PCM (something in the tune), or a connection between the two. Most everything I found on the code is about Vettes, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
you aint kidding. im still over joyed over it. last guy wanted $40. now i got a free hook up, now to not abuse the privilege lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
Quote:
Originally Posted by Booba5185
that may explain why if i ride the brakes lightly and give it gas it will pass the self test 90% of the time, other times it will just fail time after time. also seems to have a lot to with how hot it is outside, or how hot the car is. then it acts up like mad.
I almost wonder if something is up with the EBTCM, it might be overheating like they are known to do. Well, at least the GTP stuff. Yours is kinda like the 97 GPs where the ABS is all integrated into the M\C, right?
Scotty go put new electrical tape over the ends of the split loom and out over the connectors on your hubs. Out back, if not also the fronts. Just in case because in my case it didn't take much moisture at all in that connector to confuse the ABS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Booba5185
yup, same pos master bolted to the abs, the abs part there, i have 2 of em. the abs fails with both of them, failed when my battery was new too. i did add a engine to body ground under the hood too, no help.
thinking it could be the ebcm under the dash.
this abs BS has been going on since day one of ownership really.
ive gone over them wires, the plugs are all cleaned and greased too. even cleaned and greased the plug in the engine bay by the balancer for the abs harness. checked for damage at the end of the drivers side harness where it goes through the plastic shield.Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
ive been all over this over time.
Question for you guys,
My little bro blew his engine in his 2004 comp g. He found a 2005 non comp g supercharged engine to put in it. Is everything a straight swap?
Yup should be obviously you'll need to either keep in n/a or topswap it. Unsure if it'll need tune afterward though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No they both are supercharged engines, just wanted to be sure they were a direct swap.