Replaced front struts on a friend's 40th and replaced a brand line in another friend's se
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Replaced front struts on a friend's 40th and replaced a brand line in another friend's se
Front motor mount is.55in to tall now I have to cut and reweld..
Gapped the park plugs, fixed 2 plug wires, cleaned the intake filter, topped it off with almost 3 quarts of oil(no bueno), found out the fender well plastic liner is my rattle, cleaned under the hood some, checked for fluid leaks & found none, and lastly I washed it. Car runs btr now.
I cleaned all of the grounds off today and put in a new underhood insulation.
Did the front brakes and rotors, and discovered the CV shaft is slinging grease, probably going to need to fix that soon.. Question though - both front wheel bearings are new, but the abs light keeps popping on when it's cleared. What do I go for next? I'm tempted to just leave it alone, because I prefer to not have ABS.
Its probably in the wiring, or it could be in the rear.
the computer was reading that it was the fronts, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was the rears, those I haven't messed with so they're probably stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
Well if the computer said its in the front, then the wiring is the likely cause.
Put a Duralast gold battery in, had a 20% off coupon so I'm happy!
Washed it's dirty ass last night. It was much appreciated. Now tomorrow it can get all dirty again!
Picked up oil, filter and some AL 606 plugs to put in tomorrow.
I epoxied the dash lip back down from it curling up and removed my mudflaps.
Was yours seperating right at the instrument cluster area ? What exactly did you use ? Mine is separating there and looking for something to glue it back down ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandman
Did more work on my sisters Impala (luckily it's a 3.8). Today just involved me changing out the starter with a jy unit (30 day warranty) and inspecting the lower motor mount and trans mount, both of which appear to be fine. Which ended up leading me to find the wiring to the passenger side hub cut in half. Which then led me to smash my arm on the lower control arm and then splice the wiring back together.
Car still has service traction light on, so does that mean I have to get the codes cleared and then see if it will go away?
driving home and i hear a loud pop sound...than it got super loud inside the car...thought my exhaust had fallen off..nope just the cat delete came off the downpipe...guess ill have to drive to wrk at 7am with open headers and get it fixed after wrk.:th_shakinghead1:
the broken wires, did you strip them back to clean shiny copper wire then splice them back together?Quote:
Originally Posted by 87IROCZOWNER69
if you fixed the wires right the sensor in one of the hubs could still be bad tripping the light.
when a abs issue is fixed, it will clear the light asap all by its self with out a scan tool or battery un hooking to clear it.
Replaced the inner CV boot. It wasn't hard at all. The outer is probably a different story though.
Not much grease was left. Only drove it for about 8 miles with the boot cracked
http://imageshack.us/a/img593/803/kbg7.jpg
Cleaned up very well. The instructions said the old and new grease may be different so I should clean nearly all the grease off, so I did. Looks like new. No play in the bearings at all.
http://imageshack.us/a/img600/130/ut97.jpg
Re-assembled, ready for grease.
http://imageshack.us/a/img443/3463/3ctp.jpg
Re-packed and spread a bunch over it.
http://imageshack.us/a/img203/4101/fh50.jpg
Still had a lot left, so it went in the other end.
http://imageshack.us/a/img59/2273/ytsj.jpg
Ready to go back on.
http://imageshack.us/a/img28/6255/4sm3.jpg
Yup. I just got some 2 part epoxy that came with mix tubes, clamped it down, then epoxied it. It's not perfect but it looks much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by GTP in RTP
Did a trans swap on Joe's vat and helped with the lim on clays car and threw a tune on Austin's car
Bought an Aeroforce.