Thread: NA series to l32 swap parts Question

Leave all the pulleys on the l32. Yes you need a l67 fuel rail and l67 injectors. The alt is in the same place on a supercharged car and an n/a car. The alts on 97-98 cars were in a slightly different spot but that is the only difference. I don't remember what you will need for a wiring harness. You will need a Gen 5 to Gen 3 TB adapter along with a l67 tb and you will need to have a custom tune done as well. I recommend reading through this thread. http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...s-of-3800-Info

you reuse your rail and injectors, the alt is in the same place. what pulleys? you use what came on the l32. its there already.

and a tb adapter plate cause you cant your the l32 tb. its dbw. you got cables on the l67

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

you reuse your rail and injectors, the alt is in the same place. what pulleys? you use what came on the l32. its there already.

and a tb adapter plate cause you cant your the l32 tb. its dbw. you got cables on the l67

Scotty his car is n/a so he has l36.

still needs what we both said lol

you cant use the l32 tb. its drive by wire. you need a to get a l67 tb and a adapter plate.

you want l67 fuel rail and injectors.

and all the pulleys are all the same from your n/a engine, all but the sc belts pulleys. you'll need a sc tensioner, and two idlers, and one needs the pedestal by the crank. 3, 8, and 9 needs the stand under it

It would be super helpful if you told us what year you had. If you have a 97 or 98, you will need to do more. Not much more..but more.

99+ Swap:
Fuel Rails
Fuel injectors
Rear exhaust manifold
AC brackets if different
Alternator
Knock sensors (14 ft lbs)
Coolant sensor

Now the fun part, you need a TB adapter because you can not use a drive by wire on a cable driven car w/o a lot more work. Then choose your TB as well. I'd suggest an L67 aka cable driven SC TB. Plug your map sensor plug into the map sensor that has the vacuum line going to it. Ignore the 2nd sensor. Hook your evap connections to the new evap on the SC. Only things left is loading your new tune and reading up on removing the soleniod from the BCA

The boost control solenoid, controls the boost control actuator aka BCS and BCA respectively. You can unhook the soleniod and allow the actuator to work off vacuum. This keeps you from having to wire it in. Or you can get a kit from ZZP to add it it.

Yes.. you should then be good.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

It would be super helpful if you told us what year you had. If you have a 97 or 98, you will need to do more. Not much more..but more.

99+ Swap:
Fuel Rails
Fuel injectors
Rear exhaust manifold
AC brackets if different
Alternator
Knock sensors (14 ft lbs)
Coolant sensor

Now the fun part, you need a TB adapter because you can not use a drive by wire on a cable driven car w/o a lot more work. Then choose your TB as well. I'd suggest an L67 aka cable driven SC TB. Plug your map sensor plug into the map sensor that has the vacuum line going to it. Ignore the 2nd sensor. Hook your evap connections to the new evap on the SC. Only things left is loading your new tune and reading up on removing the soleniod from the BCA

why knock sensors. i used an L32 bottom end in my car 2001 NA and didnt swap them out? i havent had issues

They are different. Don't tell anyone..but I'm running the L26 ones in my 2000 NA as well, but to be correct...I suggested it. At this point, I don't remember what it is that was different (sensitivity etc) but there was something that did make sense to change them.