Thread: Why does my car continue to warp rotors?

Well my car has warped the front several rotors several times.

I have a 2001 GTP. The first time i had stock everything as far as a braking system. I then had the rotors turned and a month or two later they warped again. At this time i decided to get new rotors and brake pads all the way around. A month or two later these "Drilled and Slotted" ebay rotors warped again. getting fed with warped rotors, i upgraded to the F-Body brake kit, new "Performance" pads, new slotted rotors, new calipers, and new stainless steel brake hoses. that was done last fall and last month the warped rotors came back. Any one have any ideas? im lost.

your braking way to hard and heating the piss out of your brakes. thats the only way unless your using the cheapest of the cheap for rotors.

the first stock set you warped, then cut and warped again, they were on the edge of safe i bet to be cut. then they are rather thin and warp real easy.

I really dont feel like i brake that hard, only time im hard on the brakes is when i need too stop in a hurry. I mean i just daily drive this car lol. i didnt get the cheapest rotors out there, but i also didnt get the most expensive.

Honestly im kinda wondering if the one brake hose on the driver side of my car that has a second rubber line that wasnt replaced by the SS brake line kit could be collapsed or something.

and i bet they were on the edge lol, im not really surprised the first two sets warped but i am about the newer set up

if the brakes are dragging that hose could be to blame. that would cause them to warp. maybe jack up the front wheels and spin the tires, see if the brakes are dragging.

every time i warped a set of rotors then had them cut, i warped them again within 1,000's of miles again. make didn't matter.

Ok thanks, I will give that a try.

and the 12 inch f body rotors i am currently running have never been cut or resurfaced or anything.

Improperly tightening lug nuts can cause you to warp rotors too. Make sure you tighten them in a star pattern and not overtightening them.

Ohh thats right, i didnt think about that. I always torque in the correct pattern, but ive been letting a shop rotate my tires and change my oil recently... its possible they just torque the piss outta the lugnuts when they put them back out...

What is the torque specs on the lug nuts? its supposed to be 100 ft/lbs right?

Make sure you clean all the rust off the hub, rotor if any, and aluminum corrosion off the surface of the rim that contacts the rotor. If they're not dragging and that checks out, I'm not sure what else would cause that to happen so often.

100 ft lbs is correct.

Ok thanks guys, ill get the car up on some lifts when i get a chance

Ill bet you $1,000 you didnt warp the rotors. Its virtually impossible, if you ever warped a rotor you sure as hell wouldnt feel throbbing on braking only. Lets say your going 55 and the light turns yellow and their is a red light camera. Your forced to stop so you gotta jab the breaks. Now most people hit the breaks and once they stop they dont "release" that pressure. So now those hot rotors and pads are sitting in one spot all hotty hot. When you release the peddle and go chances are you left some brake pad material on the rotor nice and baked on. Now each time you stop more and more pad material gets built up and walla pulse pulse. When at a stand still no more pressure than just to hold the car from moving is needed, so if you just did a hard brake when you stop ease off the peddle. Or what I do is stop shorter than the line and slowly roll forward up to the line to get away from that hot spot and allow atleast some cooling.

Put that rotor on a lathe I bet it spins true and smooth.

hmm never would have thought of that. I try to let off the brakes right before i stop, but i would imagine it would be possible that i did do that a time or 2.. so if that is the case, how does one safely remove the built up brake pad material?

Iv spun the rotor on car and used sand paper and went round and round and round. If you trust yourself a easier way would be put it on stands start it put in drive and hold the sand paper haha

Try a brake scrub. Go out run your car up to 100 and jab the brakes as hard as you can but don't stop keep driving to let the brakes cool without stopping do it again and you should be good. I had to do that on the wife's old ga

haha both choices seem very safe lmao, ill try the sandpaper trick when i get a chance, i did look at my rotors and it looks like in a section there is smeared black material, presumably brake pad build up

Originally Posted by ITHURTZ

Ill bet you $1,000 you didnt warp the rotors. Its virtually impossible, if you ever warped a rotor you sure as hell wouldnt feel throbbing on braking only. Lets say your going 55 and the light turns yellow and their is a red light camera. Your forced to stop so you gotta jab the breaks. Now most people hit the breaks and once they stop they dont "release" that pressure. So now those hot rotors and pads are sitting in one spot all hotty hot. When you release the peddle and go chances are you left some brake pad material on the rotor nice and baked on. Now each time you stop more and more pad material gets built up and walla pulse pulse. When at a stand still no more pressure than just to hold the car from moving is needed, so if you just did a hard brake when you stop ease off the peddle. Or what I do is stop shorter than the line and slowly roll forward up to the line to get away from that hot spot and allow atleast some cooling.

Put that rotor on a lathe I bet it spins true and smooth.

^^^^^^ This all day long. And I would bet the OP is using ceramic pads. It is because of this brake issue that I have grown to detest ceramic pads.

Don