suspension replacement questions..

ok lets try this..

e86d01ed.jpg picture by andremike - Photobucket

e86d01ed.jpg picture by andremike - Photobucket

e86d01ed.jpg picture by andremike - Photobucket

so how bad is it?

I bought the silver POR

here is the other side.. not as bad..

e86d01ed.jpg picture by andremike - Photobucket

e60a4725.jpg picture by andremike - Photobucket

e60a4725.jpg picture by andremike - Photobucket

this side looks pretty bad. you may want to look into getting them patched up. then again im sure theres worse out there as well.


http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...e/fd9ed273.jpg

yea i was afraid of that.. i may try the paint first.. dont want to spend $500 or more to patch it.. may sell the car in 3-5 months

The underside doesn't look like it went all the way through thought.. althought is starting.. I will clean and scrape then apply the por. are you sure i shouldn't remove that caulk? some piecs of the metal were coming out when i was picking at it.. Is there anything ales I could add to it

once complete i may add some undercoating to the wheel well..

that caulk is sealant. it keeps water and moisture out of the car. if you take it out put some caulk back, i'd use some P & L caulk if you can find it, its polyurethane and sets up nice and firm, holds real tight to a clean surface, lasts for years.

but it cant be doing anything if its all rusted. its clear the water was coming in since the rust is on inside the trunk. i just want to make sure i add the por to all the right places.. maybe after i use the por-15, should i try to fill it in with jbweld or something?? cant hurt right?

true that lol. the por after a few light coats should seal it up, paint both sides, inside and out, work it in real good with a brush.

don't lay it on heavy, as you know its not cheap and you want it on the metal, not the floor. do 2 coats if need be. a light coat then a thicker coat.

and wear latex gloves, this stuff kinda stays on your hands for a few weeks if it gets on your skin.

what are your thoughts of adding jbweld after i am done with the por? mix it up and rub it in..

i dont think its going to help much. you can see its pushing up on both sides already. so the structural integrity is already compromised in a few spots.

a welder would be your best friend right about now.

That aint bad at all compared to how big the whole strut tower is.

But now is a prefect time to stop it. Grind it away and do that stuff to it and undercoat it. Patch it if you want, but honestly thats not bad at all in my opinion.

Mine are a little worse and I'm going to have small patches made and undercoat the piss outta it.

Thanks guys.. I will definitly do what I can to stop it.. compared to that utube video it doesn't look bad... I think the good thing is it didn't go all the way through yet id like to see others.. I wish I had known about this 2 years ago because I would of treated I then.. maybe this should become a stickey..

Ill post after pictures when I'm done

Anyone else have opionins on my rust? Kind want to get a better feeling about my situation..

Not sure if this is what I think it is, but is this supposed to be a new cap to weld into place on the strut tower? Why don't they make something similar for the grand prix? Maybe one of our vendors can produce something?

Strut Tower Repair Cap | AutoZone.com

Anyone ever heard of this stuff? LAB METAL REPAIR PUTTY I'm thinking after I clean and treat with POR-15 I will put some of this stuff on to build up the structural integrity a little bit..

I'm going to bump this thread cause I am thinking of doing this again..
Guess I can remove the car from the forsale section..

Here is a parts list.. did I miss anything? do i need bushings for the front and rear sway bars? My front bar is about 2 years old. Its a GMPP sway bar. so what bushings would fit? do i need a lateral link? MEVOTECH Part # MS501006

what is this for? DORMAN Part # 905503 Front; Fixed Rear Spindle Rod

MONROE Part # 171662R Quick-Strut (Rebate/Promotion Available!) Rear Right C	$102.89			$102.89	http://www.grandprixforums.net/images/Remove.gif
MONROE Part # 171661 Quick-Strut (Rebate/Promotion Available!) Front A	$104.79			$209.58	http://www.grandprixforums.net/images/Remove.gif
MONROE Part # 171662L Quick-Strut (Rebate/Promotion Available!) Rear Left C	$104.89			$104.89	http://www.grandprixforums.net/images/Remove.gif
Trailing arms RAYBESTOS Part # 4351121B Professional Grade Rear; OEM Replacement B	$15.66			$31.32	http://www.grandprixforums.net/images/Remove.gif
Stabilizer bar link MEVOTECH Part # MK6662 {#K6662} Rear Stabilizer bar link A	$12.62			$25.24	http://www.grandprixforums.net/images/Remove.gif
Lower COntrol Arm DORMAN Part # 520167 {#10328903, WC110167} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint Front Left Lower; Includes Ball Joint and Bushings C	$40.99			$40.99	http://www.grandprixforums.net/images/Remove.gif
Lower control arm DORMAN Part # 520168 {#10328904, WC110168} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint Front Right Lower; Includes Ball Joint and Bushings C	$41.79			$41.79	http://www.grandprixforums.net/images/Remove.gif
Subtotal				$565.43

Dorman trailing arms are a little cheaper and arent stamped steel, they are solid which is better.


If you just going for a factory look and feel again, then monroe's I guess are a way to go.

I couldn't find the solid ones.. do you know a part number.. preferranly on rock auto.. but whatever


I don't mind upgrading where its reasonable.. but the monroes are buy 3 get one free..

Dorman # 905501

Found them at the very top of page under trailing arms, I used my 00 GTP to look it up, but that won't matter.

Is the solid bar really better? Looks small.. not to mention its cheaper..

Yeah solid is better, think on how thin the stamped steel design is and how weak it really is.

A solid piece of steel will have more strength even through the thickness of the metal isnt very big.


On a stock setup you really won't notice a change, but the stock design would be an issue on a lowered car with beefy sway bars that was used to corner alot.