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  1. #9 Re: Replacing steering rack, Questions. 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkhorizon View Post
    Drop the rear part of the cradle about 6 inches, which means loosening the front bolts, removing the rears... access the 11mm bolt in the steering hyme boot with an impact through the driver fender well, and it should be done.
    should you drop the cradle, un bolt the 11mm bolt in the steering hyme boot first, when you drop the cradle it will slide off its shaft better, other wise it may hold up the cradle and bend the steering shaft. and i got it off with a 3/8 th ratchet, its not a tight bolt, just needed 2, 3 inch extensions and a 6 inch all connected together to get to it.

    i went used as well, just make sure the one you get is dry, no fluid leaks coming from the boots.

    i did need/use some 1/2 drive sockets for the rack bolts, not that they were that tight my 3/8 th set ran out sockets lol and a few big wrenches. 17mm 18mm , my cradle were 18 mm too. i think thats it.

    edit: after just reading the how to, i also did not move the engine forward or remove the sifter cable, i guess cause i got the lines off from underneath the car vs from the top.

    .
    Last edited by Scottydoggs; 08-03-2011 at 01:13 PM.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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