Thread: Replacing steering rack, Questions.

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  1. #1 Re: Replacing steering rack, Questions. 
    GXP Level Member darkhorizon's Avatar
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    Its not all that hard honestly... once you get the 2 fluid lines off, you are only a few bolts from pulling it out....

    Drop the rear part of the cradle about 6 inches, which means loosening the front bolts, removing the rears... Pop the tierod ends, pull the 2 rack bolts out... access the 11mm bolt in the steering hyme boot with an impact through the driver fender well, and it should be done.

    Consider maybe getting your rack rebuilt with whatever you need fixed on it as well.... your inner/outer ends are probably not that broken.
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  2. #2 Re: Replacing steering rack, Questions. 
    GTP Level Member Javi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkhorizon View Post
    Its not all that hard honestly... once you get the 2 fluid lines off, you are only a few bolts from pulling it out....

    Drop the rear part of the cradle about 6 inches, which means loosening the front bolts, removing the rears... Pop the tierod ends, pull the 2 rack bolts out... access the 11mm bolt in the steering hyme boot with an impact through the driver fender well, and it should be done.

    Consider maybe getting your rack rebuilt with whatever you need fixed on it as well.... your inner/outer ends are probably not that broken.


    That doesnt sound bad at all, Im mechanically inclined.

    I think im going to buy this used rack for $75 pop it on the car, send the old one to get rebuild and put it back on once i get it back. Then send the used one to be rebuild to have a spare one.


    Where can i get it rebuild?
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  3. #3 Re: Replacing steering rack, Questions. 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    this is what i followed http://www.grandprixforums.net/04_rack_replacement.php

    you dont need to pull the air box or master cylinder out, the lines on the rack are totally accessible from under the car, 18 mm line wrench would be best, i dropped my cradle maybe 3 inches, and removed the sway bar. dont spin the steering wheel like a little kid either lol once the rack is unhooked, lock the wheel and leave it alone, if you spin it the clock spring breaks and then you got a air bag light and no radio controls on the wheel.

    when you go over the how to, you will see theres not a whole lot to do but its all in tight areas, it took me 4 hours to complete, from car on the ground back to all 4 wheels on the ground, 30 minutes clean up time, well less time but walking around like thank god thats over!

    and i backed my car up onto car ramps, and then jacked the front as high as i could, just to gain as much room as i could.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  4. #4 Re: Replacing steering rack, Questions. 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    and i also degreased the whole under side and engine the day before so it would be a cleaner job, dont know how clean your cars engine but mine still gets cleaner every time i degrease it.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  5. #5 Re: Replacing steering rack, Questions. 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkhorizon View Post
    Drop the rear part of the cradle about 6 inches, which means loosening the front bolts, removing the rears... access the 11mm bolt in the steering hyme boot with an impact through the driver fender well, and it should be done.
    should you drop the cradle, un bolt the 11mm bolt in the steering hyme boot first, when you drop the cradle it will slide off its shaft better, other wise it may hold up the cradle and bend the steering shaft. and i got it off with a 3/8 th ratchet, its not a tight bolt, just needed 2, 3 inch extensions and a 6 inch all connected together to get to it.

    i went used as well, just make sure the one you get is dry, no fluid leaks coming from the boots.

    i did need/use some 1/2 drive sockets for the rack bolts, not that they were that tight my 3/8 th set ran out sockets lol and a few big wrenches. 17mm 18mm , my cradle were 18 mm too. i think thats it.

    edit: after just reading the how to, i also did not move the engine forward or remove the sifter cable, i guess cause i got the lines off from underneath the car vs from the top.

    .
    Last edited by Scottydoggs; 08-03-2011 at 01:13 PM.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  6. #6 Re: Replacing steering rack, Questions. 
    GXP Level Member darkhorizon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    should you drop the cradle, un bolt the 11mm bolt in the steering hyme boot first, when you drop the cradle it will slide off its shaft better, other wise it may hold up the cradle and bend the steering shaft. and i got it off with a 3/8 th ratchet, its not a tight bolt, just needed 2, 3 inch extensions and a 6 inch all connected together to get to it.

    i went used as well, just make sure the one you get is dry, no fluid leaks coming from the boots.

    i did need/use some 1/2 drive sockets for the rack bolts, not that they were that tight my 3/8 th set ran out sockets lol and a few big wrenches. 17mm 18mm , my cradle were 18 mm too. i think thats it.

    edit: after just reading the how to, i also did not move the engine forward or remove the sifter cable, i guess cause i got the lines off from underneath the car vs from the top.

    .
    There is tons of slack in there... It made it about 200x easier (I tried for 2 hours to get that 11mm out, eventually gave up for a few weeks, and tried again later dropping the cradle).

    If you care careful, and wait to do that step last, you can very easily access that bolt from the wheel well.
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