Thread: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes

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  1. #161 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
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    how hard would it be to put these on a 1997 monte carlo ls
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  2. #162 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
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    wut about swapping onto a 1997 monte carlo
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  3. #163 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
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    Your issues will lie in the brake caliper mounting points: big brake upgrade on LTZ

    Here's a rear spindle/brake upgrade: Bob and Rob's Gen 2 Aluminum Rear Knuckle and Brake Upgrade. How-To with Pics
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  4. #164 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GXP Level Member coolone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drunkie View Post
    Calipers - $250
    Pads - $70
    Rotors - $140
    SS Lines - $80


    $540 roughly
    Thanks Drunkie for this thread! It's awesome.

    I been thinking about this upgrade since I put my Enkei 18's on...
    Question of which pads to run? Hawks? With the larger rotors are ceramics needed? I'd rather not have squealing breaks... Lol

    Also, the calipers being so much bigger - has it caused any issues brake fluid / pedal response wise? Just curious
    Overkill BBC Cam, YT 1.8 RR's, Rhodes Lifters, STGII Heads, GenV, Pacesetters, 3" Exh to Tips, TEP Trans. N*, ID 75# injectors/E85 coming soon
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  5. #165 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
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    Ive got a set of Hawks on and they work great.. once you warm them up lol... but i will probably just get a set of ceramics at Advanced when it comes time to change them... as for the fluid ya you have to keep an eye on it due to the calipers requiring more fluid...and pedal travel is not bad at all
    04 Top-swapped, 3.2 pulley, ZZP 1.9 rockers w/ #90 springs,Mild P&P heads, Pacesetter Headers, Sseilmnop 2" Phenolic Intercooler with stage 3 HE, ZZP billet fuel rails, 42.5lb injectors, 3" full exhaust, all poly mounts,other supporting mods.
    oh and weight addition mods: CTS-V brake upgrade, 14" GT500 rotors

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  6. #166 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    I ran OEM pads from napa; I heard the guys in the CTS-V community say the Hawk HPS pads never cuold heat up enough to be effective unless you were doing some really serious track day work. For street with cold bite; semi-metallic is what I have and no squeallin' and its what I suggest. Plus these are only about $70-80 vs Hawks $100+ price. I prefer more cold bite then hot braking ability (this is total personal preference), pads are so easy to change out anyways, when I Autox'd I ran Trak+ pads on my maxima and HPS for daily and towards the end I just ran NAPA Ultra Semi's, took me about 5 mins to swap pads, these cts-v's are far easier to do it with.

    As for brake fluid and master cylinder you are fine. I know of about 7 confirmed cars running this CTS-V setup just fine, in fact buickman just did the Rear GXP brake upgrade and his seems to be holding up well. I would definitely keep an eye on fluid as you wear the pads. Check it every time you check the oil. The SS lines here are what give us the nice pedal feel when doing these brakes. Every car I've ever owned I've always done SS Lines because they really make a huge difference. I have less pedal travel now then when I was stock.

    Alixor, I want some better pictures man! I see your tiny picture in the sig...I want big pictures. Those wheels are perfect for your car!

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
    2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SE - Wifey Mobile
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  7. #167 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GXP Level Member coolone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drunkie View Post
    I ran OEM pads from napa; I heard the guys in the CTS-V community say the Hawk HPS pads never cuold heat up enough to be effective unless you were doing some really serious track day work. For street with cold bite; semi-metallic is what I have and no squeallin' and its what I suggest. Plus these are only about $70-80 vs Hawks $100+ price. I prefer more cold bite then hot braking ability (this is total personal preference), pads are so easy to change out anyways, when I Autox'd I ran Trak+ pads on my maxima and HPS for daily and towards the end I just ran NAPA Ultra Semi's, took me about 5 mins to swap pads, these cts-v's are far easier to do it with.

    As for brake fluid and master cylinder you are fine. I know of about 7 confirmed cars running this CTS-V setup just fine, in fact buickman just did the Rear GXP brake upgrade and his seems to be holding up well. I would definitely keep an eye on fluid as you wear the pads. Check it every time you check the oil. The SS lines here are what give us the nice pedal feel when doing these brakes. Every car I've ever owned I've always done SS Lines because they really make a huge difference. I have less pedal travel now then when I was stock.

    Alixor, I want some better pictures man! I see your tiny picture in the sig...I want big pictures. Those wheels are perfect for your car!
    Quote Originally Posted by Alix0r View Post
    Ive got a set of Hawks on and they work great.. once you warm them up lol... but i will probably just get a set of ceramics at Advanced when it comes time to change them... as for the fluid ya you have to keep an eye on it due to the calipers requiring more fluid...and pedal travel is not bad at all
    Thank you both for your input... I'm inclined to do this, lolz, what the hell right! As I don't do much city driving any more that I'm sure would keep the Hawks nice n warm, I'll skip them. I've read online good things about the Napa's so would probably give them a shot. How's the dust level with those semi/matalics?

    Ok, so I'm curious about the fluid level. Is there a master cylinder swap that would give a larger resivour of fluid without making any issues w/ABS or whatnot so as to avoid worrying about the brake fluid levels? Is it something worthwhile to do?

    thanks again for letting me pick your brains...
    Overkill BBC Cam, YT 1.8 RR's, Rhodes Lifters, STGII Heads, GenV, Pacesetters, 3" Exh to Tips, TEP Trans. N*, ID 75# injectors/E85 coming soon
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  8. #168 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    your master will work just fine, the fluid, you will need a large bottle to fill and bleed the brakes after you put them on.


    i got f bodys, and stock master, and they work like a f'ing charm.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #169 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolone View Post
    Thank you both for your input... I'm inclined to do this, lolz, what the hell right! As I don't do much city driving any more that I'm sure would keep the Hawks nice n warm, I'll skip them. I've read online good things about the Napa's so would probably give them a shot. How's the dust level with those semi/matalics?

    Ok, so I'm curious about the fluid level. Is there a master cylinder swap that would give a larger resivour of fluid without making any issues w/ABS or whatnot so as to avoid worrying about the brake fluid levels? Is it something worthwhile to do?

    thanks again for letting me pick your brains...

    GXP's may have a larger Res, but I've never confirmed it. In the 2 years I've had these...I've only added once and it was about 1/2 cup of fluid...and it was only that much because my rear brakes decided to leak while sitting in the winter.

    I have next to no brake dust on my wheels with the Semi's

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
    2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SE - Wifey Mobile
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  10. #170 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GXP Level Member coolone's Avatar
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    Hehe, ok I'm sold! Thanks for info on fluid, was just thinking to head off any issues, lol.
    Overkill BBC Cam, YT 1.8 RR's, Rhodes Lifters, STGII Heads, GenV, Pacesetters, 3" Exh to Tips, TEP Trans. N*, ID 75# injectors/E85 coming soon
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  11. #171 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
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    I run stoptechs on my cts-v's great bite even when cold. I will definitely be buying them again when it is time to change them.
    2000 Bronze Metallic GTP
    Power :Gen V, 3.6 pulley, 3 inch down pipe, Power log, FWI,and DHP Power Tuner,
    Handling: Vogtland Springs, GMPP sway bars, STBS, 18" Konig backbone, CTS-V Front brakes and GXP rear brakes
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  12. #172 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
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    Drunkie i posted some a few pages back lol... i am still working on the rear cts-v setup... i will see how the master cylinder and pedal feel is after i do that... i will prob be tackling it in the spring
    .
    04 Top-swapped, 3.2 pulley, ZZP 1.9 rockers w/ #90 springs,Mild P&P heads, Pacesetter Headers, Sseilmnop 2" Phenolic Intercooler with stage 3 HE, ZZP billet fuel rails, 42.5lb injectors, 3" full exhaust, all poly mounts,other supporting mods.
    oh and weight addition mods: CTS-V brake upgrade, 14" GT500 rotors

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  13. #173 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
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    I am surprised zzp has not come up with this type of brake kit for our cars...
    Quote Originally Posted by deadwoodspecial View Post
    On a side note, I do want to add that Classy is keeping it classy through all of this. The guy has a hell of a business ethic, and is doing everything possible to make this right. If anyone was, is, or has considered getting retro's, I HIGHLY recommend him. Good prices, and he backs his sh!t.

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  14. #174 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GTP Level Member buickman104's Avatar
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    Because the w-body market is dying and with only the front cts-v brakes the braking is disproportionate so they would need to include the gxp rears at least then they might have returns because you need very specific rims not only in size, but also in offset and spoke design. Not worth the hassel from a profit stand point and if they had to price it to make any kind of a profit it cost about $1,500 at least for the kit.
    2000 Bronze Metallic GTP
    Power :Gen V, 3.6 pulley, 3 inch down pipe, Power log, FWI,and DHP Power Tuner,
    Handling: Vogtland Springs, GMPP sway bars, STBS, 18" Konig backbone, CTS-V Front brakes and GXP rear brakes
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  15. #175  
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    Simple enough Wbody platform is dead they will focus more of their time and effort into the Ecotec platforms
    Squirrels are my engine. I need a Ford Regal
    04 Comp G.
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  16. #176 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    And even if they could list it for sale, we have this thread with parts break down that if you penny pinch you can pick all this stuff up for under $500.

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
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  17. #177 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    I live here. TLSheff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drunkie View Post
    GXP's may have a larger Res, but I've never confirmed it.
    You would have to put them side by side to really know for sure but on my catalog at work it shows 2 different numbers for the base and GXP for both the Master Cylinder itself and the Reservoir itself. Both numbers are based on whether or not the car has the Z7U (GXP) RPO Code. It doesn't tell me what the differences are between them but that there is some difference. I would imagine a size difference.
    The GXP also uses a different booster as well, based on the Part number.

    Just FYI

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier View Post
    ...not scanning/monitoring your motor is like bangin a hooker and you just HOPE your not infected.
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  18. #178  
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    Use aftermarket catalogs to find bore size. Thats all that matters.
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  19. #179 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    Not sure why it matters for the most part, Buickman has the largest front and rear and he seems to be doing just fine. This setup has proven to be reliable, I think messing with something that works already perfectly fine is just asking for trouble. Hell even my Stability Control system still works.

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
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    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
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  20. #180 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    Donating Users 02GTINFERNO's Avatar
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    This thread is awesome! I'm becoming more and more content with my grand prix purchase after all the mods i keep finding for it haha. Could you update the 1st post to include the listing for the rear gxp swap parts if possible? And maybe a set of wheels that are easily found for the swap? I'm probably gonna end up doing both the ctsv and the gxp swap just because i can haha.
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