has anyone used r1 concept roters, they look just like stoptecks for half the price
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01-19-2010
has anyone used r1 concept roters, they look just like stoptecks for half the price
01-20-2010
I'm using blank rotors from them with hawk pads. I have had no issues. I have read good things about the cross drilled/slotted rotors.
01-20-2010
Brake FAQ - RX8Club.com
Different sort of read from your typical "OMG THESE SLOTTED AND DIMPLED ROTORS ARE BOMB"
01-20-2010
Thank you so much for this link. My buddy has told me this forever and I have always had a hard time understanding it. Sorta took his word for it.Originally Posted by matt5112
01-20-2010
Yup, so next time you think your rotors are warped, just have some fun on the highway.
01-21-2010
get powerslots
01-21-2010
High performance vehicles are also VERY MUCH about bling.
So don't look to Lamborghini or Ferrari for tips on how to make your car perform better.
Heat dissipation in a rotor is effected by the veins, not the friction surface where the drilling and slotting are happening. SO, get rotors with curved veins for high air velocity which will improve the rate at which the heat is dissipated.
OR
direct air from the front fascia to the front of the rotors via a brake duct.
If you do neither, you're not improving the rate of heat dissipation.
If you get larger rotors, then you just increase the heat capacity in the rotor, but you still have the same limitations as above. In english, your rotors will take longer to heat up, but will still heat soak to the same temperatures.
The REAL solution is a higher temperature pad that can actually provide friction at those higher temps.
For all practical uses... buy some premium pads at your local parts store, they should be more than enough for most people.
If you need some more, try the entry level hawk pads (non ceramic) or EBC red stuff.
If you need any more than that, you should slow down because the only thing after that is race pads and they don't work so well when they're cold...
Last edited by matt5112; 01-21-2010 at 05:45 PM.
01-21-2010
i have the R1 slotted and drilled rotors for 2 years now on the same ones. im going to change them come spring just because theyre starting to rust.
01-21-2010
Sound and correct logic on the heat dissipation to surface area. Cross drilling does help with heat dissapation, because the holes they machine into the rotor surface allow the air to flow into the veins, thus improving air flow within the rotor by about 20%. It does this by harnessing the cooling power of the winds perpendicular to the rotor surface at any given time. Slotted surfaces less efficient than drilling because they don't affect the veins in any way, but they do help move air over the brake pad and thus through the caliper even during braking because centripital forces are moving the air out from the hub, over the rotor, towards the inside of the wheel. Practically, I'm not sure how these drilled and slotted rotors compare to a performance blank rotor, but the ideas are good ones and brake tests show that some of these well designed drilled/slotted rotors do out perform stockers, independent of your pad choice.High performance vehicles are also VERY MUCH about bling.
So don't look to Lamborghini or Ferrari for tips on how to make your car perform better.
Heat dissipation in a rotor is effected by the veins, not the friction surface where the drilling and slotting are happening. SO, get rotors with curved veins for high air velocity which will improve the rate at which the heat is dissipated.
OR
direct air from the front fascia to the front of the rotors via a brake duct.
If you do neither, you're not improving the rate of heat dissipation.
If you get larger rotors, then you just increase the heat capacity in the rotor, but you still have the same limitations as above. In english, your rotors will take longer to heat up, but will still heat soak to the same temperatures.
The REAL solution is a higher temperature pad that can actually provide friction at those higher temps.
For all practical uses... buy some premium pads at your local parts store, they should be more than enough for most people.
If you need some more, try the entry level hawk pads (non ceramic) or EBC red stuff.
If you need any more than that, you should slow down because the only thing after that is race pads and they don't work so well when they're cold...
why would you advise against ceramics?!?
Last edited by 01gtspecial; 01-21-2010 at 06:36 PM. Reason: had a few more thoughts.
01-21-2010
^ i agree. why are you going against ceramics. i took a year of automotive and was taught that ceramic and some semi-metallic pads were the best. i've heard some good things about ebc brakes. i have stock brakes now and plan on at least upgrading the pads when i get new rotors on in the spring.
01-21-2010
They're not performance pads.
They're low dust pads really.
I assume you guys want increased brake performance not lower dust and noise right?
Re-read it, I said
Ceramic hawk pads would be similar to the premium pads at your local parts store.. . . buy some premium pads at your local parts store, they should be more than enough for most people.
If you need some more, try the entry level hawk pads (non ceramic) or EBC red stuff.
Read the review earlier on in this thread, someone had them and they sucked hardcore so why spend that extra coin if you're getting a similar product? Name brand...
Last edited by matt5112; 01-21-2010 at 06:39 PM.
01-21-2010
yeah i dont know anything about pads. i always buy ceramic because i like clean chromethanks for the info tho, i'm gonna look into those hawks for my upcoming brake job.
01-21-2010
EBC red stuff is a low dust high performance street pad.
Might be worth a shot.
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