Thread: Need some audio advise and input

It's no secret that I am not a car stereo specialist. Thus the reason for this thread. I have a 04 GTP Comp G with the Monsoon audio system. The sound from the speakers sounded terrible when turning up the volume. So I purchased some Rockford Fosgate Full Range 2-way Speakers. P165 for the doors and P1692 for the rear deck. Thought this would be a no brainer but apparently some brains are required for this install. First thing i found was a Stinger SALOC Adjustable Line Output Converter in the trunk that was spliced into the rear deck speaker harness. The wires were partially disconnected from the Stinger. Also bundled up halfass like was a large blue cable that was cut but is connected to the battery, a large black ground cable(also cut), what looks like some serious speaker wire(again cut) and a smaller gauge wire that is connected to a rotary knob I discovered in the recess for the ashtray. At this point I was getting that "In over my head" feeling but went ahead and temporarily installed the P1692's. I first hooked up the speakers to the 2 wires what were spliced into the Stinger. Almost no sound coming from the rear speakers. I then connected the speakers to the 2 wires that were not spliced to the Stinger and I now have sound but it is all treble. Thats were I stopped and figured I would throw out a lifeline and see what kinda advise I can get here. My best guess is my car used to have subs and possibly a amp...both have been removed by previous owner. So, that being said, any of you car audio gurus have some words of wisdom for me? Thanks in advance.

I attached some pics to give some idea what I am working with.
Stinger SALOC

Small rotary knob in ashtray recess

JVC KW-XR610

those rca jacks on the level out put deal, would go to a amp, then to a sub. i just installed on im my car like a week a go.

for subs i just tapped the one rear speaker made the line level thing work as one ch, then ran the amp off it.

this is the vid i found and followed, the guy will put you to sleep listening, but its good info

Thanks scotty. Watched the vid and you are right...almost fell asleep...lol. At the moment, I am not looking at putting in a amp or sub. I guess my goal is getting the speakers I purchased to work in place of the stock units. I failed to mention that the stock speakers have 2 sets of wires...one set for the tweeter and one set for the main speaker. I seen this in the wiring schematics and am sure the car audio guys already know this. The full range speakers I have to replace the stock units only have 2 terminals on them. This is where I am sure my lack of car audio knowledge is giving me trouble. I should also have asked if I am going to run into the same issues with the door speakers.

my door tweeters were just wired off the front speaker, im sure you could cut and re splice them in line with the speaker lines.

mine were probably shot, so i just cut their wires and no more tweeters. i had to cut the factory plugs off and solder the new ones on, so adding the tweeter would have been easy to do, if i wanted to.

When I was looking at speakers, I considered going the component route but decided on getting full range 2-ways instead...seemed the easier and less expensive route. I like my Pantera loud...and when I put a set of Rockford Fosgates in my Silverado the sound was close to what I was looking for which is why I went with them for the Comp G. Different audio systems obviously...lol

We really don't do car audio stuff at my shop. We do a lot of driveability and electrical diag along with the nuts and bolts repairs. I never really ventured too far into high end car audio. Going to bust my cherry on the Comp G.

that makes 2 of us, but the subs and speakers made a huge difference in the sound in my car. my brother also threw me a 4 ch amp. i may just hook that up as well down the road.

and isn't your shop more of a speed shop? who puts a stereo in a race car? that would be hilarious a modified car on a dirt track thumping to the beats of the track lol

swapping lead weights for sub box and speakers lol

rerun new speaker wire from your rear deck to all 4 new speakers according to wiring harness fl fr rl rr. this way you run off the head units amp and not the cars cus the monsoon is **** for aftermarket speakers.

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

that makes 2 of us, but the subs and speakers made a huge difference in the sound in my car. my brother also threw me a 4 ch amp. i may just hook that up as well down the road.

and isn't your shop more of a speed shop? who puts a stereo in a race car? that would be hilarious a modified car on a dirt track thumping to the beats of the track lol

swapping lead weights for sub box and speakers lol

LMAO...I have seen some sub boxes that could be used as weight ballast. Scotty, we do a lot of performance work but we also do a lot of everyday repairs and driveability. I do a fair amount of mobile driveability, traveling to shops that have problem vehicles. Maybe I need to have a mobile audio specialist come and deal with my headache...lol

ive heard what coleslaw is saying before. running new speaker lines, from your HU to the speakers would be best.

I was hoping to avoid removing the HU if possible although I do agree with the simplicity it provides. It took some time to get the HU, GMOS-01 and steering wheel interface all tucked away when I installed the JVC. Not really looking forward to pulling it all back out again. To be honest if I pull the deck out I will most likely swap it out for a touch screen HU.

Wish I could help more... I can't see your photos at work. I have a feeling there's an in-line filter on that line. But the truth is that somebody obviously had aftermarket installed and ripped it out. It would make sense that they 1) added an inline capacitor(filter) and 2) installed a LOC(you found). and 3) the rotary knob is basically a "gain" knob that went to, the now removed, amplifier. I don't have enough off the cuff knowledge to really recommend anything at this time except pull out as much of the old installation as possible.

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

Wish I could help more... I can't see your photos at work. I have a feeling there's an in-line filter on that line. But the truth is that somebody obviously had aftermarket installed and ripped it out. It would make sense that they 1) added an inline capacitor(filter) and 2) installed a LOC(you found). and 3) the rotary knob is basically a "gain" knob that went to, the now removed, amplifier. I don't have enough off the cuff knowledge to really recommend anything at this time except pull out as much of the old installation as possible.

All the unknown stuff has been removed as it wasn't really connected to anything and i wasn't keen on a cut 12V battery feed cable tucked under the carpet.

As to the elimination of the Monsoon amp...does anyone know if that amp have other functions besides the speakers, like On Star, security, etc....

I hope you turned up the volume on the gmos-1 cus mine sounder like **** befor i did aswell

I did turn up the volume but damn if the chime doesn't damn near blow ya out the car. I didn't know it had anything to do with the jams comin out of the speaker...just thought it was for the chime

Originally Posted by Tony Mendez

I did turn up the volume but damn if the chime doesn't damn near blow ya out the car. I didn't know it had anything to do with the jams comin out of the speaker...just thought it was for the chime

nope it controlls the volume alloud threw the harness for audio aswell, the onstar security ect is seperate units, all you have to do is run new wire form the 8 speakers wires from the back of your deck to the new speakers, you can leave everything else hooked up

Coleslaw, can I take the Monsoon amp out of the equation by running jumpers from the amp input connector to the amp output connector or do i need to go of the back of the HU?

technically yes, but one thing also noted you said you have the gmos-1 harness right, im pretty sure thats the one for non monsoon systems. The gmos-4 is for monsoon cus i think the harness cuts the amp from the hu and only uses the monsoon amp so it doesnt overpower the amp or something like that. So that might be why your sound is ****. i could be wrong but thats what ive heard. i have the gmos-4. But honestly just pop out the hu and rerun the wires from the back. Do it right the first time. I could rewire and run it under the carpet for you in no more than 15 minutes. Its really not that bad

also think about the fact that the stock wiring harness goes from the hu to the amp in your trunk to the rear speakers and to the front speakers. If you run off that wiring harness going into the amp thats alot of useless wire. In audio you want to use as little wire as possible.

Originally Posted by Coleslaw

also think about the fact that the stock wiring harness goes from the hu to the amp in your trunk to the rear speakers and to the front speakers. If you run off that wiring harness going into the amp thats alot of useless wire. In audio you want to use as little wire as possible.

I did some research and you are correct, the GMOS-01 is not the correct one for my car. Thanks Best Buy for selling me the wrong sh*t. Well, if I am going to re-wire this thing I might as well put in the correct GMOS, right? Or does it matter if I am eliminating the Monsoon amp?

Originally Posted by Tony Mendez

I did some research and you are correct, the GMOS-01 is not the correct one for my car. Thanks Best Buy for selling me the wrong sh*t. Well, if I am going to re-wire this thing I might as well put in the correct GMOS, right? Or does it matter if I am eliminating the Monsoon amp?

doesnt matter if you not using the monsoon

just make sure you using the speaker wires from your headunit not the gmos box