Thread: Hippo's Audio Build Help

Car audio doesn't sell based on EE principles. It's all about what the customer purchases. Customers don't usually research choices and marketing/snake oil take over. Let's break this down for a second...ROOT MEAN SQUARE. Aren't root and square polar opposites? Nowhere on Earth is RMS used to to specify power supply characteristics because it doesn't make sense let alone describe any real world performance. It doesn't exist anywhere except the consumer amplifier world.

The truth behind different ohm/resistance ratings is for the purpose of system design flexibility and it relates directly to speaker's purpose/application.

Who cares if an amplifier can withstand a bullet...you still wouldn't shoot it. 1ohm = sloppy cone. Sloppy cone = mediocre speaker performance. A amplifier power supply has MUCH MORE control over a voice coil and speaker cone at 4ohms vs 1ohm.


So here's an idea....

Anybody who's curious can go wire their sub system for 4ohm or to make it more drastic 8ohm. Do an A/B comparison with 1ohm. The audience will be friends and family. Ask them if they can perceive a difference. Don't tell them anything at all...just ask which one they prefer or which one is noticeably louder. If nobody can tell or even cares then just do whatever floats your boat. If you end up with a personal preference...then that's your ticket.

Its about not underpowering his sub.

under powering subs?...that's a farse.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ering-sub.html

http://community.crutchfield.com/forums/t/23638.aspx

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~74226~PN~1

Let's put it another way too...if watts = heat and a coil is rated to handle 2384028 watts; then why would 50 watts overheat the coil and cause it to melt or deform?

Typically, people who "think" their sub is underpowered will push their gain far beyond the signal amplitude and cause clipping as well add lots of distortion. Everybody knows that distortion and clipping kills...what caused it?...gain knob stupidity.


EDIT: I'm sure nobody cares but I had ~15 watts hooked up to something I threw together at 8ohms and I repeatedly had people asking if I had 1000watts running to the sub. Nope. Sure didn't.

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

Let's put it another way too...if watts = heat and a coil is rated to handle 2384028 watts; then why would 50 watts overheat the coil and cause it to melt or deform?

Typically, people who "think" their sub is underpowered will push their gain far beyond the signal amplitude and cause clipping as well add lots of distortion. Everybody knows that distortion and clipping kills...what caused it?...gain knob stupidity.

You answered your own question. Also, which would give me better sound: A 600w sub on a 250w amp, or a 250w sub on a 250w amp? (all brands and impedance equal)

Originally Posted by KeithGTP03

You answered your own question.

uh...

Also, which would give me better sound: A 600w sub on a 250w amp, or a 250w sub on a 250w amp? (all brands and impedance equal)

All brands and impedance equal? There is no winner. Everything is equal. Do you really think your subwoofer is receiving "600 watts RMS" at 10% volume, 30% volume, 100% volume? You do realize that Steve mantz designed probably most every major manufacturer's amp at some point in time and almost all of the chinese crap are direct reproductions of his designs? You're not disputing me, just industry guru's. Did you notice that there were some major industry players in some of those threads?

ADDED BY MOD: Link to great discussion on this topic from some respected industry experts, including people like Manville Smith of JL Audio, Mark Eldridge of JL Audio and multi IASCA world champion, and Andy Wehmeyer of Harman Kardon. : Clipping: damage from power or cone movement - CARSOUND.COM Forum

I hope this doesn't come off wrong but are you trying to teach me something? I provided sources concerning the ideas I brought forth; I'm not arguing my opinion. Hrmm. I'm throwing my hands up. The purpose of my comments here are for hippo and his audience. If you really think I have no idea what I'm talking about...so be it. Hopefully I've managed to help at least one or two to become curious enough to go look for answers specific to their goals.

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

All brands and impedance equal? There is no winner. Everything is equal. Do you really think your subwoofer is receiving "600 watts RMS" at 10% volume NO, 30% volume NO, 100% volume YES?

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

I hope this doesn't come off wrong but are you trying to teach me something? I provided sources concerning the ideas I brought forth; I'm not arguing my opinion. Hrmm. I'm throwing my hands up. The purpose of my comments here are for hippo and his audience. If you really think I have no idea what I'm talking about...so be it. Hopefully I've managed to help at least one or two to become curious enough to go look for answers specific to their goals.

I have read them and here is a quote from Manville:
"a W1v2 can dissipate 150 watts average power for eight hours or more with signal peaks of 600 watts. So, we rate the speaker for 150W continuous power. This way, when a customer needs to choose an amp for it, they will hopefully choose one that can make about 150 W clean power... Even if they clip the bejeezus out of that amplifier, it is unlikely that the speaker will fail thermally"

I do not know your audio background. I do know that you read alot about it. I agree with you on most things audio. But I have experienced people blowing subs due to lack of power and too much power. And I have also experienced JL audio denying warranties because of it.