Thread: best battery for under the hood?

Love this site...

VOLTAGE

Fuses!!!
FUSES

Fuse Opening Time:
A fuse does not blow when the current reaches its rated current. It is designed to pass its rated current without opening. A fuse will take varying times to blow under different conditions. A fuse will pass significantly more than its rated current for a very short time. It may take 10 minutes or more to blow a fuse at 25% over its rated current. The table below is an example of the specifications for a slow blow fuse. You can see that a 20 amp fuse may pass 40 amps of current for as long as 5 minutes before blowing although it probably wouldn't take a full 5 minutes to blow. The times for other fuses will be slightly different.

Try running 40, 60, and 80 amp fuses in a similar system to the ops. Which fuses blow playing music at the loudest levels possible that doesn't damage or over stress the equipment. Please use the correct wiring as well!!!


EDIT: Question, what are some of those competition people doing to reach 150 decibels with a 6.5" sub? Are they the typical every day "competitor"? How are they doing it on just "500 watts"?

Lol.. how about you run 2600 rms on your stock electrical, pounding day to day at high volumes, and tell me how long your equipment lasts? Our stock electrical system, let alone our 120 amp alternator, CAN NOT support 2600rms daily.

Real professionals? Sooooo.... only the largest classes, the "real professionals" use batteries and multiple alternators, correct? If batteries have no effect on the system, why are batteries limited depending on class? Too many batteries can bump you up in classes.... but, that makes no sense, seeing as how they have no effect whatsoever on the system. Lol... I really hope nobody ruins equipment that they spent their hard-earned money on.

Nevermind, I understand after looking at your build logs... you are speaking from the standpoint of not having run a system with this much power. I see why you fall back on the logic that you do. Try it one day... and I hope you have money to replace your equipment when you fry it due to the "battery not being important, and the 120 amp alternator being enough to support 2600rms." Good luck lmao.

Originally Posted by Fatboy501

Nevermind, I understand after looking at your build logs... you are speaking from the standpoint of not having run a system with this much power. I see why you fall back on the logic that you do. Try it one day... and I hope you have money to replace your equipment when you fry it due to the "battery not being important, and the 120 amp alternator being enough to support 2600rms." Good luck lmao.

Attempting to dismiss information simply because I may or may not know your neighborhood and friends?

Ignorance like yours is the reason car audio has fallen apart. Please go read a book about electricity before putting down others.

Application of knowledge is a bit more than just turning the volume up. When you take the science out of car audio, there's nothing left but smoke and mirrors...err I mean competitions. Thanks for trying to contribute.

Car Audio Myths

TeamSwift • View topic - Myths Dispelled: Why Capacitors Don't Work

Capacitors, batteries, alternators, and myths

Really Funny car audio myths - diyAudio

Car Audio Electrical System and why you're sort of wrong about capacitors. - YouTube

Capacitor or extra battery? - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality


Anyways...every professional I've come across will tell you straight up. Batteries are for playing audio when the engine is off. Alternator = playing audio when engine is on.

So were we talking about DbDrags, competition setups, or a daily driver on the Grand Prix Forums?

Funny how things become skewed to support an argument.

Is a daily driver playing games on the very edge of acceptable amplitude? What does he do when he changes CD's and the recording level is different?

Originally Posted by AllenH427

Yes it is, because I drive daily with my setup and push it to the edge non stop. I'll end it right here since it appears I have more experience than you. If I didn't have 3 batteries and my HO alt, getting the potential out of my system would not be possible. When you don't have the extra battery power to back up the voltage and amperage your HO alt is putting out, you WILL burn up your amp, you WILL blow your subs due to a clipped signal.

Correct. How many people drive down the road with a DMM on their equipment?

The real issue here is that the Op isn't into competitions. He isn't into anything else that you and others might be referring to.

Experience vs. academics? Was the 86 grand national wrong then? he had 140 decibels in his mid-bass alone. He didn't need a plethora of batteries. He just turned over his engine.

, you WILL burn up your amp, you WILL blow your subs due to a clipped signal.

That's a direct function of your gain. Just because you're retuning every song to get the "most" out of it doesn't mean the electrical system is the blame.

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

Experience vs. academics? Was the 86 grand national wrong then? he had 140 decibels in his mid-bass alone. He didn't need a plethora of batteries. He just turned over his engine.

140db means nothing to me unless I see what frequency was picked up at that. 150db with horn tweeters isn't hard at all, of course you're measuring it at a wicked high frequency.
XST2.mp4 video by MetalHead42792 - Photobucket
I'll bet money that's well over 140db at less than 6ft.

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

That's a direct function of your gain. Just because you're retuning every song to get the "most" out of it doesn't mean the electrical system is the blame.

Direct function of my gain? Did you read what I said? It's PROVEN from me and every amplifier manufacturer out there, the lower the voltage, the quicker the amplifier is going to reach it's clipping limit. I swapped my alternator, and didn't touch the gain. My voltage on a song would clip heavily at 12.0V, then new alt and it would be a clean signal at 14.0V, how are you going to tell me I touched the gain?

For those wondering...in SPL they're attempting to extract EVERY BIT of volume from their system. It can become very involved. At the heart of all this is your gain. The goal is to maximize the playback potential from start to finish. The gain bridges the source to the amplifiers. Everything else is a domino effect. What Fatboy and the other are saying, nm...it just begs the question of whether or not it's applicable to the op's application and needs.

Majority of daily drivers set the gain and leave it. Apparently these two guys take everything a step farther. You're playing with fire when you do that; as they've previously stated.

Anyways...here's a quick fyi on gain and how it applies to the system. Unregulated power supplies certainly make it a circus act when attempting to balance everything and maintain harmony.

Amplifier Gain Controls

As Allen Hall already stated, I posted this exact issue to people with much more experience than myself. 1800, I truly do not appreciate you stating that people like me are the reason why car audio is falling apart,when you have not built a system running this sort of power. People like YOU are the reason big car audio companies prevail... of course, buy the Sony "2400w" amp instead of the Sundown, AQ, Stetsom, Soundigital, Digital Designs, etc. that require electrical upgrades to use. that You had references, I did not... I linked this convo to people with knowledge FAR beyond either yours, or mine. You can try to convince the OP as much as you want... perhaps you will prevail. In any case, you can attempt to down me all you want to... YOU HAVE NOT RUN THIS MUCH POWER. I, as well as Allen, have REAL WORLD EXPERIENCE as opposed to reading and relating. I respected you, and your opinion, up to that one statement from you. Honestly, to tell me I'm the reason car audio is dying, when I apply this knowledge day to day... man you can kiss my ass. End of story... don't believe me, don't believe the competitors... the choice is yours.

Guys come on don't argue about this... everyone has their own opinions... for god's sake it audio!

I800COLLECT is the Mod that knows a sh*t ton about car audio. This argument should never even have started! The OP got his info in the first few posts! Come on guys

Not an argument man... no offense was taken until my real-world EXPERIENCE was belittled. I realize that 1800 is much more knowledgeable than me on this subject... which is why I linked this convo to people who have much more experience than me or him with this subject.