There's no secret to his setup. He has 4 1/0 runs to his trunk and did the big 3. He has an extra battery in the trunk but that's for the competitions where the engine is off. Just as it's been mentioned already, grounds are typically insufficient; quality vs. quantity.
Surface contact, locations of actual groundings, corrosion, proper crimps/soldering, etc. These are all issues related to insufficent grounds...even nickel plating copper wire. Personally, I have run class a/b amps that presumed output of almost 1500 watts altgether. I did not have dimming issues unless clipping sub signals. I upgraded the battery to fender ground and added an 8awg wire to a strut bolt. The amps in the rear are grounded to the strut tower bolt as well. Since then I've moved to a new class D amp that is 150x6. It's been tested to put out almost 186 per channel and 192watts a-weighted.
Anyways, I don't have dimming issues. But I've even gone as far as using large washers and scraping off paint in order to increase surface contact for my grounding points. The other guy I mentioned used 1/0 wire from the welding section in lowes or something rather when he did big 3. I've posted his process for melting solder between the wire and terminals too if you feel like searching.
scratch that. i have very slight dimming isses when idling at ~700rpms. It was getting that low when my egr valve was problematic. But then again, even the fan blower was having problems with output at that low an rpm. Also, I had calculated ~30 to 40amps worth of draw, depnding on music, with the class a/b amps and my head unit cranked. The amplifiers' internal fusing combined for 170amps total. I had the 4awg wire for power fused at 80amps next to the battery. Just because you're rated for 728448 jigawatts doesn't mean you're using it. Oh...and a-weighted i was hitting ~115db's and I could get as high as 130's for c-weighted.