Well, I wasn't quite satisfied with how the colors mixed. I repositioned some to let the OCD show a little more, lol. Drawing corresponds to the color changes. (Edit: This is the final layout for the color scheme I was looking for. Be careful if you choose more than one color. I used a color chart to make sure blue and green mixed ok.)
It completed a more graduated color scheme. The camera picks up a purplish shade on the RPM and Fuel gauge that isn't noticeable with the eye. You'll have to trust me on that. All three areas look exactly like the speedometer now.
I'm not big into grandiosity, but this turned out absolutely stunning. Whenever the car's Bermuda Blue gets redone, this will look phenomenal.
Seriously, thanks for following along. I hope this gets more people to try it. It's not that bad once you get in there.
My last tips are that the needles all have a counterclockwise stop. Simply, mark or picture where they were turned all the way left by hand before removal. Barely push them back on, just enough to stand. Start them much too high on the indicator lines and turn them counterclockwise until you feel the motor shaft stop. Slide the needle to your low mark. If there is too much resistance, lift and start again. Hold alignment steady and press down. Just send it all the way home, it won't bind or anything. I used my fingers to pull them off. Just be careful not to bend the shafts, which are surprisingly sturdy. Have some extra LEDs. Might as well since they cost a quarter and waiting would be horrible. The site I referenced for them has a few colors in 1210, and it is a two pad solder package. There are four pad LEDs on that same site that aren't right, but appear exactly the same. Notice the notched corner on each LED. Those are for polarity and need to be in the upper right corner on all replaced LEDs (assuming you're looking at the faces as they were in the car.) I'd be willing to help with questions, etc. Just send a PM.
Back to it then. This project is done.
