Thread: 04+ Cluster Bulb Swap & (abandoned) DIC Project

I got a gauge to play around positioning without A pillar. It's got a BA9s bayonet style bulb.

What size are the bulbs behind the cluster? I can try to order whole set then ..without having to take apart my dash right now. I searched and found all interior bulb sizes, but those. Lol

Cheers

Talking about this after dinner reminded me that they're LED's. So, I just took it apart and looked.

If you've done the HUD fix, this is what you'll see after opening the cluster case.



I marked the gauges quick (small arrow). The holes are for some alignment tool if you want different colored backgrounds (large arrow). Those gauge faces are expensive, imo. Probably more worth a second look after this mod.



The leds are all over. The problem at this time is that my ABS computer's bad. I'd probably have trouble telling which leds are for illumination only. (Solved)



Measured.



I took a few minutes remembering things from soldering days. I didn't have the time to measure voltage, but I'd guess it's 12v. These are SMD leds that are approximately 3mm square. It took about a half hour, but I think I came up with what they are. Now, replacing them is another story. I have the skill, but I only have one cluster on hand.

Search for SMD 1210 or 3528. You can try googling "1210 (color choice)", but here is a direct link to the LEDs I used. You'll want the ones maked "PLCC-2." The four pad ones marked "PLCC-4" are incorrect. http://lighthouseleds.com/catalogsea...imit=15&q=1210

LED's aren't usually 12V there is a current limiting resistor that is already built onto that board and the traces that supply power to the LED. Just find out what the package size is and use one (want to say it's a 1210). The problem is going to be matching the color. They are measured in nM wavelength, though they may have a color assigned to them as well. It's kind of like a Daylight or warm color florescent bulb, there are subtle differences in color. If you are changing color then just pick the one you want. Remember that they are diodes so if you connect them backwards they will not work unless you buy bidirectional ones which have 2 LED's built in.

Jeff

Originally Posted by SaukRapids

Thanks Jeff. I was looking at the specs on the leds and noticing the difference in light output and angle. 12v is wrong. 1210 with the two pad package are 3.0-3.6v typically. I'm not sure how to measure the applied voltage to the diode. I don't think I'm able to with a multimeter unless ..maybe a resistor?

Either way, what I'm thinking about doing is finding a JY cluster and replacing a single led to see if it illuminates. I'm fairly certain it will, but one is easy to swap back. I'll update once time and money allow.

Any other tips are appreciated. Especially, if anyone's done a GP before. Thanks.

you don't need to measure the applied voltage just replace them the drive components are already in the cluster. LEDs just need a current limiting resistor. We make a power supply that has 4 LED's on the front panel indicating +5V, +24V, -24V all DC and 120VAC to indicate that the fuse is good. The only difference between the LED's is the colors Red, Yellow, Green and another Red that correspond to the voltages mentioned above. So the 5VDC and the 120VAC LED's are the same the 5V has a 360 ohm resistor and the 120VAC has a 10K resistor in series with the LED's. This equates to 13 milliamps and 12 milliamps through the LED.

Jeff

Yeah it's just simple ohms law calculation doesn't resistor, just look at the milliamp rating and you can use just about any LED just keep it below the maximum current.

Sounds good. Is there A diffuser behind the panel?

I need to wait for the car to be here, but I'm fairly certain this is right. LEDs showed up earlier. I obviously got too many, so the actual cost should be a bit lower.

Yellow are indicator LEDs. Pretty sure the blue are illumination. (Edit: Here is the correctly marked picture. I missed two more illumination LEDs marked in red.)





I'm anxious to get going, but I'm not %100 on the solder tip I have on hand. Might be a late night.

Lol well if you feel not up to it let me know I'm professional when it comes to soldering all types of solder from 60/40, HMP, Silver, LMP and lead free.

Jeff

Idk if the green is working the way you were wanting...but the blue is gorgeous. Lol I think the red needles are keeping it from showing properly.

They are also much brighter than stock, which is something I like a lot. Good work so far, keep it up!

Looking good! I like that color.

If you are using the iso alcohol for cleaning all the flux up after soldering, try an old tooth brush works a lot better at getting at the joints than cotton swabs. You can even heat the head of the tooth brush so that you can bend it back so you aren't scrapping your knuckles. We use a water soluble flux solder and flux pens. It allows you to wash your boards with warm water and remove all of the flux. Then use an air compressor to blow the water off. Just use common sense when getting components wet like motors. We actually wash all of our boards that we build in house with water and dry them in this manner.

Flux pen: Kester 2331-ZX part number:8310972331

Water soluble solder: Kester 331 (.031" 63/37) Part number: 40500461

We are now using Locktite solder. Part number: SN633C 0.56mMR HX3C (250 gram) (I think this used to be Multicore brand)



Jeff

Instead of tinning the pads just pad them with solder then use a solder sucker to remove it and it will sit flat. That way when you go to solder instead of just melting the existing solder you have on the pad use the solder on the roll to add so that the flux spreads properly and allows a good joint. The rosin core isn't bad, it's Acid core you don't want to use, but it's meant for soldering copper pipe and metals together. Acetone will work, but it may wash off the silk screening. SMD parts really aren't that hard to solder by hand. I am not in practice but built a prototype card a couple of weeks ago and here's the result: