Thread: How to remove/move battery to trunk GXP/GTP/GT

Good idea. I'll give that a try just to see. Thanks for the input. I'll post up results

Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

...but when that 150-250 amp surge is trying to turn your engine over...that "short ground wire" becomes a:

battery neg terminal>ring terminal>wire>ring terminal> sheetmetal>series of spotwelds>sheetmetal>series of spotwelds>sheetmetal>spotwelds>sheetmetal> spotwelds>sheetmetal (now we are at the pass front unibody rail)> ring terminal>wire>terminal>groundbolt>starter motor negative windings

or it can flow:
batt>ring terminal>high grade fine strand copper wire>ring terminal>ground bolt

try to guess which is the one thats gonna flow a large amount of current with the least amount of voltage drop

Good write up/how to Andrew.
Turbo has some meat and potato, real world reasoning there.

Yup...I'm gonna give it a try with jumper cables and see what's up!

So turbo...I now agree with u. My cables weren't long enough to reach from trunk to block so I pulled battery out... and sat it beside car and hooked positive wire right where the one from the trunk was hooking up at and ground to a point right above starter....and bam....fired right up even with headlights on.
So my thinking is I'm gonna get 20ish feet of 4 gauge ground wire and run under car (protected that is) to battery and also leave my other ground I have back there on. Since power likes path of least resistance

i did not know you were using the body as ground point to connect a solid ground. trying to use the body for a ground sucks most of the time. especially for a hi draw motor like a starter.

its long ground wire time for sure, as your test just proved.

that stuff is cheaper if you buy it with no ends, and then solder your own eye loops on the ends. you may have to order it on line but thats the game right.

added some more pics to the original post. also since then i have put a clear silicone coating over all bare metals to prevent rusting and done a little wire management under the hood. will do more when i top swap next week.

when you top swap? i thought you had a v8? or you upgrading the intake?

get rid of the lead terminal on the positive

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

when you top swap? i thought you had a v8? or you upgrading the intake?

Yup I got an ls1. 91parkave's old set up except I'm repainting everything



I just got me a new MAF and intake and my own throttle body.

Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

get rid of the lead terminal on the positive

I'm guessing u mean the LED thing reading voltage? It was only temporary. I was going to use it but went with side mounted wiring instead of top.
Any more things I could do to improve it turbo? Ur advice on running ground straight to battery was spot on

btw for best terminal strength i suggest a good quality 3/8ths bolt at least 1" uhl and a flange nut (ace is the place lol) the bolt you thread in by hand to make sure you have 100% thread engagement then tighten the nut...you end up with an easy 9/16ths wrench removal and a full nut and stud reliability

stock bolts suck and people get too tq happy even with that tiny hex.

if you go 1.25" uhl you can tighten a std nut under the bolt head and you get a terrific jump start post that makes the oem bolt look like your putting the cables on yer gf's nipple lol

thats fine as you have it, the power cable should also get a large copper lug crimped on to get rid of that lead terminal asap

Hey turbo. I'm at ace now. They have 3/8 1.25 inch but their black and not silver. Doesn't look like itd conduct electricity well

And what do u mean by uhl

Well this is what I ended up with

and I already have new 3/8 ring terminals for the wires

Didn't your order the post I used in my setup?

Which posts?

Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...d=370935100406

O no I didn't order that. I think what turbo is saying is for the actual battery posts. I sorta but not really get what he's getting at. Pictures would help

Lead equals led he meant get rid of the led terminal you have for the positive and go for a copper lug to go to the artery....iirc ace hardware was the only ones who sell 0 gauge copper lugs

yeah, that gray bolt on "repair" terminal is made of lead and not a good option over a true crimped on copper lug

while not the exact hardware i usually get the bolts are for the battery terminals they will work fine.

i aim for non flanged bolts (just hex head clear zinc) and thread a non flanged nut (or two if longer than 1" uhl-under head length) up the threads and tighten em up to the bolt head. this gives you a 1/2-3/4inch tall hex that jumpercables swoon over....then i put a flangnut on that i use to tighten the terminal (you dont need a flange nut, but washers are annoying)