Thread: Fuel Pump

Ok, full stop.

I am going to go dig out all of the paperwork regarding the mods before doing anything else, since that seems to be in question here.

Lets try starting over. It does not seem so cut and dry this time. Never had so much problem diagnosing a fuel pump before.

I will be back with the information if I can find it.

Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

you know it when the pump takes a crap, trust me. you turn the key and theres no pressure at all, no prime buzz sound from the pump. yours seems to be working fine.

if you just got it and have not done any maint to it yet, start with a tune up. when they need a tune up they fall right on their faces when you get into boost even a little bit.

This is where my learning curve comes in, I have never owned a supercharger before. I know I have a few more things to learn.
All I have done is changed the fuel filter.

Up until now, I was thinking the fuel pump was just weak, not totally broke.

Originally Posted by J57ltr

The schader valve is before the regulator which means that it is subject to the same pressure the injectors inlet. It should rise when the engine is running and you disconnect the line from the regulator. When the line is reconnected it will with the level of vacuum.

Going forward a cheap and easy way to read codes and data if you have an android phone is the BAFX elm327 Bluetooth module and the Torque pro app. It allows you to do anything a code reader can do plus monitor live data like O2 voltage, timing, injector pulse width and almost anything you can dream of all for less than $30. That gives you a lot more data than just watching pressure from the gauge.

Jeff

I have that, have not gone into great detail with it yet. I suppose I should now. I did however scan for engine codes and nothing has been logged. I will add looking at the live data to my to do list.

Originally Posted by J57ltr

The schader valve is before the regulator which means that it is subject to the same pressure at the injectors inlet. It should rise when the engine is running, and you disconnect the line from the regulator. When the line is reconnected it will fall with the level of vacuum.

Going forward a cheap and easy way to read codes and data if you have an android phone is the BAFX elm327 Bluetooth module and the Torque pro app. It allows you to do anything a code reader can do plus monitor live data like O2 voltage, timing, injector pulse width and almost anything you can dream of all for less than $30. That gives you a lot more data than just watching pressure from the gauge.

Jeff

I got out the previous owners android and got the torque app running. Its working. What should I monitor to resolve this problem if I am not going to totally rely on the pressure guage. I am familiarizing myself with the software, but its connected.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Things seem to keep going in different directions here with very little info being available to diagnose from.

If you took one picture looking in from the passenger front corner.. we'd be able to see the front exhaust, pulley and other things to tell what's on this engine.

If you found/listed that info from the paperwork we'd be able to tell what's on this car

If you told us how long the plugs etc and even fuel have been in the car, that would tell us a lot

What I'm saying is.. some of us would really like to help out and there's only one hang up.

Bare with me, I am working on it. I was not able to get this information before acquiring this car and it is an emotional roller coaster. This is not the only thing I am having to reverse engineer.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Snap a picture.. most phones in the last 10 years have cameras. Honestly.. you'd be surprised what I can diagnose from a fuzzy iPhone pic or some poorly put together and misspelled sentences.

Those are the impressive days lol

Never got on the smartphone wagon, hate the damn things.
However, here are the pics.

http://alumniweb.uky.edu/gtp/20151001_114242.jpg
http://alumniweb.uky.edu/gtp/20151001_122803.jpg
http://alumniweb.uky.edu/gtp/20151001_122817.jpg
http://alumniweb.uky.edu/gtp/20151001_122833.jpg
http://alumniweb.uky.edu/gtp/20151001_122841.jpg
http://alumniweb.uky.edu/gtp/20151001_122852.jpg
http://alumniweb.uky.edu/gtp/20151001_122901.jpg

Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

i hate to break it to you. but you have one mod and it dont belong on there as you dont have headers. taken care or or not, its not right at all.

zzp tunes kinda blow too. that air box looks so DIY to me. but im sure its just fine.

that hard line thats taped off near the fuse box, find the other side of it and repair it, thats a vac leak for sure tape dont hold well.

im also willing to bet the hvac dont work right at all. like its stuck on vent floor or defrost aint it? that line powers the hvac.

you really need a set of headers on there, and a way to scan it for kr. im willing to bet you have ton of kr right now. and you dont want to meet chip do ya????


meet chip, hes a asshole who shows up when your modded. kr causes the chipped piston, if stock its fine, but if you drop pulleys you dont want to see any kr at all.

I keep seeing zzp, is it obvious this is zzp or an assumption? As of now, I am not sure where the mods came from, I am still searching. I have every damn receipt except for this.
HVAC works perfectly, if you want frozen, you can be frozen. If you want to be cooked, you can be cooked.
The only thing on the car that does not work properly is the DIC and other than the fact that it falls flat past 3000rpm.

Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

hes a story about KR, when the pcm see's KR it pulls timing, less timing and it falls on its face.

when my car was stock i had 8º of kr, at wot i had like 5º of timing, where it should have been around 13º. its how the pcm tries to save the engine from meeting chip.

not bashing you, trying to save you from a engine swap. headers are your first mod always. then you can drop pulleys and tune it to be right.

and a canned tune is just some settings that worked on another car, its not a custom tune. every car takes mods differently and needs its own personal tuning done to be all it can be. ( in a perfect world anyways) we all dont own a tuner, i know.

and a tune up would have been done already if the car was mine. cause thats the cheapest thing to change. and you've not changed them since you took over the car right?

if its got copper core plugs they only last 12 to 15,000 miles, and cost less then 20 for all 6 plugs.

if its got plats in there thats another issue and reason for it to fall on its face hard, 3800's hate plats pretty much. and love copper.

First things first, headers are out of the question at the moment. Before I go there, I need to know what is going on with it now. After this is resolved, then headers can be a consideration.

Fair enough. I got the damn android with Torque loaded, what do I do to check the KR?

As far as plugs go, I will pull them tonight and check them but really have had no reason to suspect them. Never knew a supercharger could be such a pain in the ass.

Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

its not the sc, it something else.

t app, you load up GM pid's and then add kr on a gauge.

heres a how to. http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ive-KR-monitor

try setting it up with out torque scan, see if kr is listed first, if its not d/l the other add on.


if headers are not in the budget, pulley up to stock. its for your own good. you'll see after you scan it.

wait for the car to be warmed up before you check for kr, knock sensors dont work till the engine temp is like 160 or so.


and 200 for headers shipped is not to bad of a price, a lot of us run speed daddy headers. cheap and work. a tuner can be bought for another 260. that 500 bucks right there would be felt via the butt dyno for sure lol

If it was working correctly.......

Idle =kr 0.0 deg
driving-babying it = 0.0 deg
driving-pedal to 3/4 = I saw it jump up to around 2.0. It fell to 0.0 when I let off the pedal.
coolant temp = 183.2