Just wanna make sure ... I lined up the timing dots.. And just want to know your guys take ... Taking my sweet time and not rushing .. Do these dots look aligned?
![]()
|
Just wanna make sure ... I lined up the timing dots.. And just want to know your guys take ... Taking my sweet time and not rushing .. Do these dots look aligned?
![]()
Bill is it ok if the chain has a little movement with it?
double roller week![]()
yes looks good - i just posted a similar picture the other day, James had some nice input as well
Now I remember a while back, another member maybe Reptile? sd because these are made for the aussie N/A cars, true "0" on the crank timing is actually negative a couple degrees on our cars....
I cant see how that is possible because both crank sprockets, stock and the DR line up exactly the same on the crank, keyway in same location as well
so it kinda had me worried for nothing and a bit confused?
Yes i did
Yes the same thought ran through my head the double roller look a little off but them i presumed it being it doesnt matter how much i try and lined it up perfectly, its gonna be a little off somewhat but as long aa the teeth or lined up with dot i should be fine.. Thanks guys!
The difference is between L67/L36. L67's have their cam timing retarded 2* from the factory so when you put the DR on (made for l36) it changes the timing.
Best way to be certain you have it set right and there are no problems with anything is to buy a cam degreeing kit and verify everything is timed right.
I did on my xp cammed double roller l36 and everything was within ~.5*
Unless I'm reading this wrong, I don't see any difference in the alignment with the keyway on the crank between the DR and stock gear.
I put the stock crank gear on and lined up the dots. Not turning the crank , I installed the DR and the dots still line up. So the part that confused me was how the mechanical timing supposedly changes when going from the L26 crank gear to the DR
The only explanation is the center-line between the cam and crank of the 2 engines is different. I am not sure if the is engine has been properly machined or your just prettying up your old engine while dropping in a cam. But if you spent that much money you should degree the cam too. I think this is where a lot of people go wrong, they stab parts into the engine without ever checking anything. You can buy a cheap degree wheel for like $20 in the 11" diameter range a 16" one will be more like $50 but you should at least check it against your cam card so that there isn't anything out of the ordinary. I once got a cam from Comp Cams that was 15* advanced when installed straight up and it was brand new. Do they make offest keys for these engines in case you are off and need to correct due to machining or anything?
Jeff
jay on the crank gear can you kind of explain what exactly needs to be chamfered? I am wanting to send mine in today to a machine shop but he likes older v8 to work with and i just want to make sure he knows clearly what to have machined.
Send him the stock one and ask to match it
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |