Thread: A few issues trying to get my GTP back on the road

Hello everyone! I have a 2000 GTP.
I have 2 issues.
#1 The power steering line broke. It's the line that goes from the rack to the rack. It looks about the size of brake line and not the size of the return line or high pressure line and it's not a long line either. There's not a lot of room to torque a line wrench to remove the line. The fitting is on the junction that's near the drivers side wheel. Should I cut the line and try to remove it with a socket? Is there a better tool I should buy? I doubt I can get a socket in that small space. What I want to know is it only a dealer part? Has anyone else ever replaced it before?

#2. I changed all my brake lines. I bled them properly and have full pedal when the car is off. When the car is on, the pedal goes to the floor. I have to pump it up to get pedal. When I push the pedal, the RPM's jump a bit. Do I have a vacuum leak? I found a small home in the hose to the brake booster and taped it up with gorilla tape. I'll replace the hose soon.

A little history: The car sat for about 8 months. The rear brake line blew and I let it sit until I decided to fix it again. Before the brake line blew I did the upper and lower intake gaskets so the engine runs good.

The RPMs rise slightly while you are pumping the pedal because you are simulating a vacuum leak by over using the booster. It's normal.
Follow death punch's bleeding procedure and your pedal will come back, and make sure the engine is off.

Thanks guys. I did that bleeding procedure last night and there's no air in the system. I have great fluid flow coming out of all 4 bleeder crews and no air. The pedal is firm when the car is off. I heard of doing a bleed when the car is in the on or run position without the engine running. I fear my master cylinder is dead. If so, I will replace it. Also, from the car sitting so long I wonder if the calipers are seized and not functioning as they should?

I think you are onto something with the master cylinder.
Brake systems can be tricky to diagnose at times.
Bleeding with the car running just runs the risk of blowing a hose, line or piston, because the booster is way over assisting.
Since there is no air in the system after your double check, about the only thing left would be the master, especially after confirming there are no line, hose or piston leaks.
As for a caliber not working, you'd know by looking at pad and rotor wear.

I ordered a master cylinder, will be here Friday. The dealership says my steering line is discontinued so I'm going to a hydraulics shop to manufacture a line for me.

Can my brake booster be bad? I have had my ABS light on and replaced my front wheel bearings and the light still remained on. I scanned the vehicle with a scanner that does ABS codes and no reading could be obtained for ABS, it said no information available. On my wife's 2003 Grand AM the ABS light was on and told me which wheel was causing the issue so I know the scanner works.

Well that's interesting. Somewhere amongst this forum is info about the abs control module.
Maybe someone will chime in that's dealt with this "no reading" with the abs light lit.
A bad booster commonly would cause a persistent vacuum leak.
Since you have topped off the fluid reservoir, and used the brakes, has there been a loss of fluid at all?

Not all scanners can read all ABS codes. Just because it worked on the Grand Am doens't mean it will work on the GP. You'd have to look up that particular scanner and see if a 2000 GTP is readable for ABS codes.

That aside, you could have a wire harness issue from the hub to the main harness. The 2000 has a 2-piece harness and has been known to crack and corrode internally for a few inches of wire. If you meter each front harness where it attaches to the main loom you should be able to tell which one is not generating voltage therefore not sending a signal to the EBCM. Just follow the ABS wire from the front hub up the control arm and you should find the other plug connection.

Thanks Fordman I didn't know the ABS wiring harness was a 2 piece harness. I'll look into that ASAP!
The scanner worked on a 2002 Buick Regal with the same engine and computer so I'll do some digging jimzssei.

If the master cylinder went dry, you're screwed. Air gets into the ABS module, and there's no way to get it out without taking it to a dealer and having them force purge the module. No amount of pumping will fix this.
If you think the booster is bad, let the car sit for about an hour, and pull the main vacuum line out of the booster. If you hear the air whoosh in, then the diaphragm is still intact, and the booster is fine. Master cylinders don't usually go bad either. They'll either work, or they leak and then need replaced.

My master cylinder did go dry but I put fluid in it when it got too low. I'll try bleeding the master cylinder too before replacing it. Thanks guys.