Thread: engine has rod knock

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  1. #1 engine has rod knock 
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    My 98 gtp developed a rod knock do these engines usually have issues with #1. Seems like that is where it is coming from
    What is the cheapest way to fix this issue I don't have much to spend
    Thanks
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  2. #2 Re: engine has rod knock 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    used engine is the cheapest route. start with cl local junk yards, and such,

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: engine has rod knock 
    GXP Level Member Timing's Avatar
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    Post a video of the sound.
    08 MazdaSpeed 3- Treadstone tr8l, Ebay Piping, Ported intake,Thermal gasket, Cs Injector Seals,Cobb intake/inlet, Autotech Internals, Poly mounts, Speed Daddy DP, Magnaflow CB,
    RPF1 17x9 255/45 Direzza Zll
    04 COMPG- Vs, getrag 284 RIP
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  4. #4 Re: engine has rod knock 
    GT Level Member SilverBulletWI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    used engine is the cheapest route. start with cl local junk yards, and such,
    ^^This. Had the same issue. Got the oil pan off to confirm rod knock/spun bearings. Then bought a used engine on craigslist. For me it's turned into an upgrade project going from a GT to supercharged with minor upgrades. But after research and advice from people on here including the above author...I found if you try to repair these engines after rod/crank issues, they won't last long.
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  5. #5 Re: engine has rod knock 
    Donating Users Uno99's Avatar
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    Same thing happend to me. If you have a small budget junkyard/salavge is your best bet. Good luck man. Been alot of this latley.

    02 GTP VS CAM / 3.2 MPS / CAI / SD HEADERS Catless DP & E-Cutout / AEM WB / HPTuners
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  6. #6 Re: engine has rod knock 
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    Thanks for the info guys I found one from a 2000 gtp for $225 are there any major changes from 98 to 2000?
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  7. #7 Re: engine has rod knock 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Nope.. change the coolant elbows and the bracket for the alternator..you should be all set
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  8. #8 Re: engine has rod knock 
    GTX Level Member SnowTh1ef's Avatar
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    Nope.
    04 GTP -HAI, 1.9 rockers.
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  9. #9 Re: engine has rod knock 
    Donating Users Uno99's Avatar
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    Nice find how many miles?

    02 GTP VS CAM / 3.2 MPS / CAI / SD HEADERS Catless DP & E-Cutout / AEM WB / HPTuners
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  10. #10 Re: engine has rod knock 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Technically the TB is different too. Either swap it out or consider updating the pcm
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  11. #11 Re: engine has rod knock 
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    Thanks for the info is the 2000 tb any better than 98?
    Uno99 right around 120k
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  12. #12 Re: engine has rod knock 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    its not that its better or not, its maf wont work in your car, so just swap the whole tb to the new engine.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  13. #13 Re: engine has rod knock 
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    Ok thanks
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  14. #14 Re: engine has rod knock 
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    Have fun with the swap keep us posted with pics of you progress.

    02 GTP VS CAM / 3.2 MPS / CAI / SD HEADERS Catless DP & E-Cutout / AEM WB / HPTuners
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  15. #15 Re: engine has rod knock 
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    Why dont these engines take to rod/crank work?
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  16. #16 Re: engine has rod knock 
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfrey View Post
    Why dont these engines take to rod/crank work?
    It's not that they don't...it's that people don't realize exactly what is required. Once the main caps are removed from the block, the block distorts and should be line honed to correct this. The rod bearings need to be checked VERY carefully due to wear on the crankshaft. I measure at least 3 times both the rod end and the crank and then still use plastigage to make sure I was right. Any abnormal variance means something is getting machined or replaced. Who wants to spend 6 hours on just measuring?
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