http://www.ebay.com/itm/Knock-gauge-...-/181309925670
would be nice to have a visual monitoring system.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Knock-gauge-...-/181309925670
would be nice to have a visual monitoring system.
Anyone?
You could get a scangauge, aeroforce, HPT, DHP etc and watch it, hell..you could watch the noise channel.
I can see how this would be useful to an extent but we have other versions on the market available that can tell you not only that there is KR but to what extent the KR is happening as well (as Bill already stated.) Also, you'd have to add another knock sensor so that would deter me from using it as the location of the knock sensor would be on either the front or rear bank and not able to capture both at one time.
Nope I agree with bill and add even the cheap torque app if you have a droid device
I do have hpt, but only use it for tuning. I wanted dome thing for everyday driving just incase. I did order it as I had no response. It uses one wire from the knock sensor. I plan on using the wire that goes to the PCM fro both knock sensors, pigtail them and splice them together so that the signal will goto the guage and show knock no matter which sensor it comes from. And from there I will hook up hpt and see what's really going on.
I had an aem uego before and went through two sensors and then the guage stopped reading. It was only a few years old but barely used, never again. I went with the gen 3 plx dm-6 sm afr. And living in canada I got hammered on the shipping, duties, brokerage and exchange.
If you splice together, wouldn't that read incorrectly to the pcm unless you used a diode?
You plan on taking two wires that have different information (front vs back) and combining them w/o understanding the circuit or how the pcm reads them and ascertains info from them.
They are separate for a reason, Y'ing them will either piss off the pcm, fry the pcm, make it read wrong or simply disable the pcm's ability to tell you which cylinder is misfiring.
No matter what you choose to do.. this gauge is crap, it's not worth the $50.
I'm not arguing with you, just trying to understand how? I see the point of splicing and the possibility of the signal back feeding from one knock sensor to the next. Is there any way to isolate that? There shouldn't be any problem with the knock gauge feeding info to the PCM as that's not it's design. With the knock sensors, I'm assuming they read the same sound and are interchangeable. If that's so, does it really matter which bank the knocks coming from, the PCM sees knock and acts accordingly.
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