I'm looking for ways to get my KR down. I'm seein about 4.5-5* of knock. It's only happening when it shifts at WOT. Scanning with an aeroforce running 91 octane.
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04-18-2013
I'm looking for ways to get my KR down. I'm seein about 4.5-5* of knock. It's only happening when it shifts at WOT. Scanning with an aeroforce running 91 octane.
Last edited by JaredR215; 04-24-2013 at 07:05 PM.
04-18-2013
put in 93 octane, headers, rockers, 2.5-3" downpipe, cam, port blower.
04-18-2013
What are your mods?
04-18-2013
Go e85
04-18-2013
I've got a 3" catless DP. ZZP wires. ZZP 1.0 PCM. K&N cold air. Still on stock pulley. Trying to get this knock down so I can drop to around a 3.5.
We can't get anything higher than 91 octane here
Also, I'm seeing around 5.5 for boost numbers. Is that normal?
04-18-2013
Put stock pcm back in it kr will go down
04-18-2013
prob not it will prob go up to 8 kr with stock pcm get some headers and get the false knock kit
04-18-2013
I had less kr on stock tune
04-18-2013
Headers, Headers, Headers... Then tune... If ya want, port the S/C, TB, colder t-stat and tune it all in... More flow is better, but gotta tune it. Tuned PCM will help get rid of KR. Not the boxed variant. Those will only take you so far. That 91 Octane needs to go up... Did I forget to mention Headers?
04-19-2013
Headers suck and tuning is pointless on most cars. If you have that much kr you have a mechnaical issue. 91 octane isnt that bad.
04-19-2013
ZZP sparkplug wires have a history of issues. Try swapping back to stock to see if it changes anything.
Ensure that your downpipe does not have an exhaust leak.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Clean your MAF sensor and throttlebody.
Check your receipt for the ZZP PCM to ensure that it's tuned for 91, not 93.
after all that... fresh fuel filter, check sparkplug gaps (0.060), replace with new if near 100k or over.
04-19-2013
I know that I have a bit of a leak where my down pipe goes into my resonator. Could that really be the cause of it? I know my vacuum lines are good, when I hooked up my boost gauge I ended up replacing half of the lines.
04-19-2013
Headers suck? Hmmmmm...
I guess then the same can be said for porting and polishing heads? Lmao!
ANY flow mods... On intake and especially the exhaust side with these engines helps. And tuning then afterwards most certainly does help, if not eliminate knock.
I had from +5* kr prior to headers... 3-5* afterwards, barely 1/2* now after 1.9 YT RR's and 3" exhaust. And that's with just beginning (learning) to tune. So...
Yeah ok, I totally disagree with you! Respectfully of course! As I've been told every 3.8 is different. ; ) maybe your experiences are different.
04-19-2013
You do know that I had a 3.4 pulley and a tuner EIGHT years ago right? You were probably not even old enough to drive a lawnmower.Originally Posted by coolone
I have been doing this 3800 "thing" long enough to say what I say with knowledge and experience behind it.
04-19-2013
Now... Let's keep in mind, I spoke about what you said, not about you other than to say I RESPECTFULLY disagreed. For your information I started driving over 35 years ago Internet smart guy! My first car was a 73' Pontiac Grand Am that I bought used, worked the engine, cammed and more and raced it too. Whatever... I've been out of the game for a long time, way before everything was controlled by a damned PCM, lol...
Eight years ago, lol... Doesn't mean anything to me, nor does any mumbo jumbo about your experience, I've already allowed for that. Simple formular is... More air in = more air out! Thank you very much...
see below...
hmmmm... All exhaust systems I'm aware of bolt on... Not sure what you mean by that? Bolt on Mod? Where is AROUND HERE exactly? I installed my Pacesetters and was not half the horror made out to be here online, no leaks either. Only problems I've had we're introduced by my thick head. Other than that, I've not known headers installed correctly to require any maintenance.
Fact is... Most of us who decide to mod, or start pushing these engines past the STOCK set up, get the bug. Many start small, then mod more, then even more and finally trying to squeeze every drop of speed or HP, go all out. I always suggest headers as it eliminates one of those steps early on. And quite frankly, only those who get the cheap headers fit the mold of what you say. There are some who follow smart exhaust doctrine with headers, meaning primary sizing, material (S/S or Ceramic) for proper heat retention, etc., which clearly is an advantage over the stock system, the back pressure b/s has been well discussed so not even worth it here. These 3800 engines are well known that the STOCK exhaust is very restrictive and just a bad design...
Bottom line is I will stick to my guns here as I've never seen a serious race car, street or track without them(headers), regardless of engine, platform...
Nuff said!
: )
04-19-2013
Maybe he meant headers suck to install??? I know afterwards they look and flow much better!!! :-D
04-19-2013
Headers are pointless on a bolt-on car. I'm not sure why they are pushed so hard around here for 3.4 to stock pulley cars. At that level, they aren't worth the maintence headache that they cause.
04-19-2013
headers offer the least bang per buck of any mod, even at these chinabay prices. They are a pain in the ass to keep from leaking if you can even pull it off, and you might pick up .1 and a mph in the quarter with extensive mods... I have never seen a 3.4 pulley car go faster with them.
04-19-2013
See that just dont make any sense to me... Headers allow the exhaust to flow better... Plus headers are almost as much as a PLOG and DP combo...
04-19-2013
Stock manifolds aren't even close to being out-flowed at a bolt-on level. Bigger isn't always better.
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