Im going to buy a powerlog soon, I know I want the ceramic coating on it, but i am not sure if it is worth it to get the one that is 304 stainless steel. Will it really be worth getting it in 304 for the extra 60$?
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10-23-2008
Im going to buy a powerlog soon, I know I want the ceramic coating on it, but i am not sure if it is worth it to get the one that is 304 stainless steel. Will it really be worth getting it in 304 for the extra 60$?
10-23-2008
My friend got a non-stainless plog coated in ceramic and I got a bare stainless. His coating is coming up a bit and it started to rust. Mine holds in heat just as well as his coating does but won't flake or rust. You decide.
10-23-2008
yea, i think it might be worth the extra money... might as well get even more heat holding, and no rust
10-23-2008
Honestly, I wouldn't even bother with the ceramic. Well, for that matter I didn't.
10-23-2008
i heard its really good stuff from alot of people so i definitely want it. heard it really does hold in the heat good
10-23-2008
will the stainless hold heat better then ceramic?
10-23-2008
From what I've heard they hold in heat about the same.Originally Posted by adidasdude1061
But on a related note, why do people always insist spending the extra money to get a stainless or ceramic coated powerlog when they still use a non coated or non wrapped crossover and rear mani? I'm mean isn't the whole point of having ceramic coating to hold the heat in and increase velocity? Won't the heat just disperse at the crossover and rear mani anyway, negating the most of the effect that the ceramic coating is supposed have? I mean I can see why someone would want stainless or ceramic coated header's as it would keep the heat in until the downpipe which is out of the engine bay anyway. Am I missing something here or what?
10-23-2008
Rear manifold isn't such a big deal since it's any heat it's giving off is being taken away by air moving through the engine compartment and is gone. But, I do have a stainless Plog and ceramic x-over.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...2/DSC02410.jpg
10-23-2008
yea, im actually getting the stainless WITH ceramic coating.
10-23-2008
is that possible? to get stainless with ceramic coating???
10-23-2008
how hard was the crossover and plog to put in? did you have to rock the motor, heat the bolts or anything?
10-24-2008
yep its listed as an option... so i guess you can get it. its hat resistant with rust resistance of stainless
10-24-2008
IMHO getting the plog in stainless AND ceramic coated is kind of overkill. I've had a stainless one for about a year and a half now and it's still in great shape. Also, if you wrap the x-over you get the semi-same effect as getting it ceramic coated for alot less $$.
10-24-2008
Crossover was a *****. Broke a bolt off in the rear manifold (no matter how much PB Blaster I put on it). Finally drilled it out and ran my own bolts/nuts/washers to keep the issue from happening again. If worst comes to worst I just dremel through the bolt and the nut/washer will fall off the back.
My improvised but very sturdy solution:
Stainless hardware with anti-seize so no more problems. Should've come like this from the factory, but I guess their way was cheaper.
10-24-2008
yea, but i figure i might as well... its really not too much more. prob worth t in the long run. Does the heat wrapping really help that much with the xover? i know you arent supposed 2 put it on the plog.IMHO getting the plog in stainless AND ceramic coated is kind of overkill. I've had a stainless one for about a year and a half now and it's still in great shape. Also, if you wrap the x-over you get the semi-same effect as getting it ceramic coated for alot less $$.
10-24-2008
i hate to be this guy but....
Why do you guys waste money on a plog and crossover? Either one, by itself or together, doesn't matter. Why don't you just spend the 360.00 on non-coated pace setters and wrap them? I did, i can touch mine while the car is running and change my spark plugs right after running the car down the track. I used to have a FWI, now i have a HAI with a HUGE cone (made a big difference over the FWI IMO) because my under hood temps are down to just over ambient. It's night and day with header wrap. But i'm sure you've heard a story about them cracking... blah blah blah whatever, i run higher egt's than all of you with E85. Burns 100+ degrees hotter than gasoline (if you didn't know) and i haven't cracked mine yet... i also run nitrous, do you guys know how high egt's are with nitrous? HOT! Headers are one of the BIGGEST mods for our cars period. I used everything that came with my kit and even hooked it to the stock exhaust. Perfection! So, i need reasons why you won't do that? ohh and get them from zzp and you won't have all the horror stories you hear about installing them, trust me.
10-24-2008
For me, two words. Naturally Aspirated.
They will be sold off when that changes. Any headers on the market for the 3800 kills the L36/L26 low end torque with the same gains up top as the Plog/ported manifold combo. Though, no lost low end with the Plog.
10-24-2008
for you i guess that makes sense... but i'd still rather have a top end. That motor makes plenty of tq, you'll still be able to cut some nice 60's with 3.29's paired with a 3k stall if you lose a little tq. But i'm not a n/a guru haha, so i can only give MHO but it's not facts. I'm sure you know 10x a million more things about n/a 3800's than i do. I really want to learn though, not gonna lie i think it would be just as fun to build a solid 14 sec gt then top swapping it into a monster.
10-25-2008
What is the point of getting stainless if your gunna cover up the beauty with ceramic coating?
10-25-2008
well it wont rust then, and its a better quality metal
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