Thread: Gutting the convertor

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  1. #1 Gutting the convertor 
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    Im about to gut the cat convertor, my question is, would it be easier to unbolt it between the engine or cut the pipe from behind the cat?
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  2. #2 Re: Gutting the convertor 
    GXP Level Member Poil336's Avatar
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    well, to answer your question, if you plan on using it again, i wouldn't cut the pipe. but getting those bolts off is probably the biggest PITA you can imagine when it comes to working on a car with any miles on it.

    now, my question is why? unless it's clogged, there are no performance gains to be had from not having a cat, and you'll probably get a check engine light and a code for catalyst efficiency. if it's clogged, you have a fuel trim problem that you should address
    99 GT - top swapped, S2X cam. - sadly, sold
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  3. #3 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poil336 View Post
    well, to answer your question, if you plan on using it again, i wouldn't cut the pipe. but getting those bolts off is probably the biggest PITA you can imagine when it comes to working on a car with any miles on it.

    now, my question is why? unless it's clogged, there are no performance gains to be had from not having a cat, and you'll probably get a check engine light and a code for catalyst efficiency. if it's clogged, you have a fuel trim problem that you should address
    It clogged, and i dont have the money to spend on a new downpipe..
    Thanks though i feel the same way the last thing i want to do is cut the pipe but those bolts look like they aren't going to go down with out a fight
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  4. #4 Re: Gutting the convertor 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    the 2 bolts to the res are going to break, i got new ones for $1. new gasket about 6 or 7. the down pipe tubes may give you some problems, some have suggested to get the car hot, drive it up on ramps or jack stands and quickly and carefully while its hot try to remove the DP bolts. air gun helps but not needed.

    then after you get it off, cut the top open and gut it, weld it back together, that way it cant be seen at inspection. if you have that.

    you will need to have the o2 deleted from the pcm or you will have a cel on forever.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  5. #5 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    the 2 bolts to the res are going to break, i got new ones for $1. new gasket about 6 or 7. the down pipe tubes may give you some problems, some have suggested to get the car hot, drive it up on ramps or jack stands and quickly and carefully while its hot try to remove the DP bolts. air gun helps but not needed.

    then after you get it off, cut the top open and gut it, weld it back together, that way it cant be seen at inspection. if you have that.

    you will need to have the o2 deleted from the pcm or you will have a cel on forever.
    The dp nuts were easy to get off and your right about the res bolts theyre rusted to death! Now i'm stuck. Also where can i go to get the o2 cel deleted?
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  6. #6 Re: Gutting the convertor 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    you'll need to find a local with a hpt tuner or another type program to delete it from reporting. being your in Michigan, there should be someone near by who could help you out.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    Thanks ill look around for a hand with the tuning when im done. But im stuck now since the res bolts are garbage now.. Should i try and cut them or what?
    Thanks for your help by the way.
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  8. #8 Re: Gutting the convertor 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i had to cut one off, i used a cut off wheel, but a hacksaw will work, or a corded grinder.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #9 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    Arite i'll cutting it off with a wheel i'll post back on here when im done thanks again
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  10. #10 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    Did you use a regular wrench or a special wrench on the o2 sensor mines on there pretty good
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  11. #11 Re: Gutting the convertor 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    why not just unplug it?

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  12. #12 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    Where do you unplug it at? Doesn't look like you can unplug it at the cat
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  13. #13 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    Nevermind i found it.. Haha
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  14. #14 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    So i pulled the whole exhaust, cut the res bolts getting ready to go at it with the convertor. And then i seen the gapeing hole on top of the resonator.. Now i know why my car is so loud inside.. I dont really know what to do any suggestions? I would like to patch it to save money but how long will that last?
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  15. #15 Re: Gutting the convertor 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    being that it seams you can weld, this one is right up your alley.

    measure your res, go to autozone or where ever and get a glass pack muffler, and swap that in for the res, they cost about 25 bucks, vs over 100 at napa for a walker replacement res, you need a 2.25 in/outlet i got a new gasket and took it to the muffler shop to match up the new flange too. no mistakes.

    my exhaust was all after market, all clamps, no factory welds. so i got the glass pack cut one tube off welded a flange on the end, and put it in. got the flange at a muffler shop, the local stores dont carry them, cost me 10.

    you may need to cut the pipe and weld it in if your all factory pipping. but the flange does help seal it up to the cat nice.





    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  16. #16 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    You're the man thanks, i'll post back up to let you know how this goes.
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  17. #17 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    So im all finished gutted the cat, hooked everything back up. And i dont have a cel, is that weird? Should i still have it tuned?
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  18. #18 Re: Gutting the convertor 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    it may or may not come on, but may come on later after the pcm cycles a few times.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  19. #19 Re: Gutting the convertor 
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    So just wait till it comes on and then worry about it?
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  20. #20 Re: Gutting the convertor 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    yeah kinda...it will happen tho, some people have put in a o2 bung when they have hi flow cats, to trick the sensor into working, i think they only cost 5 bucks. it makes the o2 sensor sit up out of the exhaust pipe some. that's one thing to try until you find a tuner.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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