Thread: What aftermarket convertor do you run?

What after market convertor do you run? How many miles on it? What stall? How loose is it(under light throttle what does it rev to)(or how much throttle gets it to stall all the way out?) If you want what are your other mods.


I might be changing convertors agian soon and dont want another one extremly loose like i have now. Im thinking a zzp 2750 which i know are good since i have several friends that run them. I am turbo and wanted a 3k stall and the one i got is way to loose for a dd.

Originally Posted by Trannyman95

The problem is that all of these supposed rated converters arent really going to stall at the face name of them. A stock GTP converter stalls to 3K for example yet if you order a 2500 converter from ZZP it will stall about the same or maybe a bit less which is fine for an M90 car but you definately need a bit looser converter for a turbo car. What converter do you have now? A 2750 or 3000 vendor rated converter will probably be good for every day driving. If you can get traction or plan to use slicks at the track I would probably even go with the next step up depending on turbo size and how quick it spools.

Ive got the yank 3k now and tommorow i should be able to find if its the noise in the trans. I will most likely use slicks at the track but this car is a dd so i dont want anything nuts. Ill give up track performance for daily driving. I thought the same about getting the 2750-3k being good for everyday since i have riden in several cars with 2750's and 3k's and driven one and it was fine. This convertor maybe just because its on a turbo which doesnt make as much sense to me is way looser and revs way higher. You said it was designed for a cobalt or sunfire so im guessing thats the issue.

Originally Posted by Trannyman95

The converter was designed for use with 4cyl engines, which make much less torque than the 3800. The more torque you apply to the converter the looser it will feel. Im sure its a great converter but just not for your combo or needs. Any time you call a big torque converter company, Im not talking about one of the 3800 vendors, Im talking Precision, Yank, Coan, Continental, etc..... They are going to ask you what HP the engine makes, torque, at what rpms, tire size, gear ratio, vehicle weight etc. They NEED all of this information to build the converter correct so it WILL stall to what you want and the engine requires to perform best. This is why I just shake my head at the rated converters available as that number doesnt mean anything unless it was built for a specific car, but every car is different, especially NA as opposed to power adder. I hope this helps out with why your converter isnt stalling at the 3K it was advertised, but you are probably more than doubling the torque input to it that it was originally made for.

Yeah i knew how the stall vs power thing worked. I just wish i would have known the yank was this way before i bought it. I did get it cheap but still doesnt change that its in and i hate it. Im just trying to figure out what to get if the car in fact does need a new convertor. Im thinking zzp 2750 right now. Im guessing with my smaller turbo i could build a decent amount of boost on it on the line and it should fully spool shortly after. As long as its a dd i dont think ill move larger than the 62-1 hifi.

I think I"m just gonna stay with a stock converter on my build......

Unless Dave suggests otherwise.