Thread: Cam installation question - Engine on stand

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  1. #1 Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
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    So here's my question. Are the lifters captured on these engines? ? Meaning if I take the pushrods out and roll the engine upside down the lifters should fall down enough to swap the cam out. I know this works on a viper engine but not sure with the 3800. Figured I'd ask because it would save me from tearing up the new lim gaskets I just put in.

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  2. #2 Re: Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
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    I was under the impression they were held in place by the retainer plate.
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  3. #3  
    DUI BABY Bio248's Avatar
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    Matt is right, but you can't take the cam out without taking out the lifters.
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  4. #4  
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    Even with engine upside down? It was just a thought. Figured it'd save me some dough but I'm this far so I don't wanna turn back now.

    Thanks


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  5. #5 Re: Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
    GXP Level Member darkhorizon's Avatar
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    Aluminum intake gaskets can be removed and reinstalled without much issues...

    Anyway, you can roll the motor over, spin the cam, and the lifters will stay in the retainers.
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  6. #6 Re: Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Cool idea. Had not heard of it before. Our lifters retainers do hold them. The thing I don't know is.. if they hold far enough away to get the cam out. Although all aftermarket cams keep the stock retainers in place and some max out lift. I'd think you could do it. That should save a bunch of time and some extra expense.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  7. #7  
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    I'll let you know if it works. I can stay with stock lifters with a xp cam correct? Or do I need aftermarket lifters?? Also what chain do you guys recommend if I go the xp route?? I've heard some horror story's and just wanna make sure I get the right one..

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  8. #8 Re: Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I'm likely going to try it on the next cam swap that I do, in two weeks. Please do let us know.

    Depends on the springs and your expected rpm. If you bump it 100rpm that makes the cam/chain wear the dampener less. With 105's, L76's or LS6's, I'd likely use a stock replacement chain. More spring..bump up to a double.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  9. #9  
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    Bill if it works u can use a trick that I did years ago. 12 rare earth magnets inserted into 1/4,5/16, or 3/8 tubing (whichever fits) and epoxied in place. Take out pushrod. Insert tube with magnet till it grabs the lifter, pull up and clip with cotter pin ( drill hole in cotter pin). I use to do this all the time in the dynos.. saves you talking the intake or anything apart. You'll need a long electricians screwdriver to push down on lifter after you are done to get it to release from the magnet on cars were the lifters aren't retained. I got my magnets on ebay.. they were 10 pound 3/8 round by 1/2 deep.

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    Last edited by LapeerGTP; 03-05-2012 at 11:21 AM.
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  10. #10  
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    I'll let you Thursday. Cam will be going in then and I'll give it a try.

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  11. #11 Re: Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Hurry up man. Dave is here next thursday. I'll know 100% by next Friday if you get delayed.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  12. #12  
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    Well I did it tonight. I can 100% tell you that you can take the stock cam out and install a S1x cam by rolling the engine upside down and leaving the lifters in. So you could leave the intake and everything intact, remove pushrods and rockers. Roll over and remove cam then install cam pretty quick.

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  13. #13  
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    Awesome! That is so great to know man. You're helping so many people out for sure.
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  14. #14 Re: Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update. I thought it was possible once you planted the idea.

    Makes total sense too. A little upside down or outside of the box thinking will often save tons of time.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  15. #15  
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    The lifters once all the way up were kinda stuck there too. I'm gonna check tomorrow to see if the lifters can fall out once the cam is out and if I use a magnet to pull the lifters up if the lifters will stay by themselves. If the don't fall out and stay up then its entirely possible to do this job right side up and only use one magnet..

    Just curious with my car being a daily driver and keeping the stock chain would you guys recommend keeping the balance shaft in? If so is there any wear parts I need to check for on the balance shaft??

    Thanks for any input

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  16. #16 Re: Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Yes..keep the shaft. Lifters won't stay up on their own if the engine is right side up.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  17. #17  
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    After I had the cam out yesterday and played around installing the other cam I accidentally rotated the engine back over with the cam out and the lifters all stayed up. That's what got me thinking about them staying up on their own..

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  18. #18 Re: Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
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    Well.. They are held down/retained by the plastic retainer. They won't necessarily flop and fall quickly, but they do slide down in the bores

    here's a couple pics of the plastic retainers.


    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  19. #19  
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    I'll ask this question here instead of starting another thread.

    Are the rod bolts in these engines re usable? ? I'd like to put piston rings in this thing while I've got it tore down this far but don't want to have the rods resized or anything like that.

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  20. #20 Re: Cam installation question - Engine on stand 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    dont break the bottom end open, if you do the engine wont last long most of the time, it will need to be machined and cost a boat load of money to have done.

    and the bolts are tty, one time use.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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