Or while the car is running at idle you car spray carb or brake cleaner around spots where vacuum could leak (sealing surfaces, lines, etc..) and see if the motor changes tone at all. Usually when you do this and hit a leak the engine will speed up and smooth out for a second until the leak returns. Been doing it this way for years and it always works.
Cool idea on the TB/air thing. I'll have to try that sometime and see how well it works.
Here is some info on the plugs you can use for your car...
4) Spark Plugs - Change out those stock spark plugs with new ones to restore any lost power. Brands that most WBody owners tend to go with are either Copper Core Autolites or NGK Spark Plugs. Get these at your local auto parts store also. Others can chime in if they use something else. They range as follows in order from hottest to coldest plugs...remember...you want the hottest spark possible...so running a super cold plug on a larger pulley to combat knock isn't the best plan...ACD's, AL606's, and AL605's are basically for stock cars or very small bolt ons still running the stock S/C Pulley or modded N/A guys...you want to keep a hot spark. NGKTR55/AL104's for your 3.4" Setup, TR6's are a tad cooler...best used around the 3.25" pulley area, and AL103's...are for the extreme supercharged application...3.0" pulley or lower. Here is a picture to reference the firing order and the correct coil number if yours aren't numbered or you just need a quick reference picture: http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../plugwires.jpg
AC Delco Factory Replacements: Stock
Autolite 606: Stock
Autolite 605: 1 Heat Range Cooler
NGK TR55: 1 Heat Range Cooler
Autolite 104: 2 Heat Ranges Cooler
NGK TR6: 2 Heat Ranges Cooler
Autolite 103: 3 Heat Rangles Cooler
Originally Posted by FordMan77
