keep it up man, solid day's worth of work and you got it
Printable View
keep it up man, solid day's worth of work and you got it
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...30650550_n.jpg
sitrep
going to work then I'll be back at again all night. Headers still aren't here I finally got the right belt! also I forgot about the fact one of the exahust manifold studs broke off in the head and now the heads on."front one" don't know what I'm going to do about that.
Also not sure about the fuel line conections to the fuel rail what do I need to do for that?
and I need to go pick up some heater hose for the intercooler.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...31764409_n.jpg
Idk why the **** I put that stuff on there I knew better but I did it and then decided 10 mins later I need to change it.
also I found out U haul rents a trailer for towing a vehical for 54 bucks plus 9 for Insurance so I guess thats how I'm getting to prj never towed a Trailer down the road before so this will be interesting.
Whats wrong with that hose?
The real clear stuff is the bad hose, but that hose looks like it's going to kink as well. Months later it gets weaker and more prone to kinking. About the only place I'd use it is near the top of the system for 1-1.5 foot so you can easily see the fluid or any air in the system.
What type of fuel setup are you going to have that you're worried about connections then?
fuel line will just clip onto the L67 rail. you might wanna pick up a pack of new connectors though, its like $4 at autozone. i had one leak.
a heli-coil repair wouldn't be hard to do... if the head was still off
There's no conecter on mine they were cut and flared
there's a fuel line repair kit up there too where you can just splice them together. you have to get the ford one for one of them though; different diameter.
so I need fuel line repair kit new hose for the intercooler pluming what about the broken manifold stud?
I have seen about 5 IC setups including my own with the kind of hose. The only reason people THINK they have to use heater hose is because its coolant rated. The thing is the coolant in an IC system is never going to get even close to as hot as the coolant running through the motor so it won't matter. It's true that it's not as flexible but It doesn't kink and that's what 90 degree elbows are for. But I guess to each their own.
well, if there's no room to drill and tap it, and you're lucky enough that there's a little bit sticking out of the head, you can heat it up with a torch and melt some wax on the bolt, defy the laws of gravity and make it flow up into the hole, and take a pair of channel-locks to it. if not, use a helicoil or time-sert insert. you're gonna need a drill for that though, and you have to get it straight. worst case, you have to take the head back off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz Magister
+ TIME-SERT + THREAD REPAIR SYSTEM www.timesert.com thread repair system for stripped thread repair. - YouTube
not the best vid, but you get the idea
With a right angle drill I drilled the stud out of WOTGTP's car. Then used an extractor to remove the rest. It was my hour of greatness. Next Buickman killed a stud and it ended up drilled and a larger bolt used. I gave that credit to another guy.
hmm takeing the head back off really isn't an option to me right now also I ****ed up big and broke a valve cover bolt front head again... My dad has his mig welder home atm do you thing he could get the bolts out with some washers and nuts?
headers aren't here yet should be here today I'm kinda waiting on them before I get everything back together...
also I'm putting the sc back together do I put the gasket maker stuff just between the snout or do I put it inbetween the rotor pak and houseing too? also torque?
Valve cover bolts are 89 INCH pounds.
SC snout bolts there is no FSM spec, but I use 15-17ft lbs.
Use very little sealant between snout and rotor pack. Leave nothing between the rotor pack and housing.
anaerobic sealer on the sc
so I got the whole thing together was abale to get the the valve cover bolt off but not the broken exhaust stud so now I got to pull the whole f in thing apart probablly have to replace the head gasket... fml fml fml if only I had remembered there was a broken stud....
can't you get a right angle drill in there? there's a little room depending on which stud it is. get it straight and then run a tap in it
tried that pulled the head off and used the mig welder to weld a bolt ontop of the broken stud came right out. Now the question is can I just set the head back donw ontop of the gasket and torque it down? or do I need to pull the studs clean and re paste them the studs shouldn't move if they have already been torqued in I would think
lucky bastard invested in studs lol. nah, they'll be fine, that's the whole point of the stud. should be able to use the same gasket too unless you f*cked it up at some point. sucks you had to redo that, but i'm jealous of how quick you got it together. i've been wating on getting an exhaust welded for a month now, let alone the rest of the build
yeah its back up to the same point it was at 9 oclk which is
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...99289099_n.jpg
Its comin along good man. Isnt today your deadline lol