Thread: Engine wont start

it slipped off, and there is no ring! what do i have to do to get a new one? ive looked everywhere for it, even in my old and new cv axle. ughhhhh

IMG_11741.jpg picture by Hixchris - Photobucket

hehe...I think your axle seal is leakin...cause the axle isn't sitting right (due to missing ring)

You can get them off any passengerside axle that's laying around. uh.. maybe parts store

You think that will be enough to piss the fluid out? Just the clip? I'm gonna go to parts store to see if I can get one.

Like Bill said, yep. I'd think it would also cause some vibrations or feeling of an unbalanced tire. You probably would lose more fluid when going over bumps from the axle slipping out.

i was always just under the understanding that the seal wouldnt leak even if there was no cv shaft installed. i didn't know that having it pressed and clipped in stops it from leaking out. im just trying to think of a way to explain to the monkeys at the parts store what im talking about when i ask for a clip

auto zone has diagrams you can both look at to see what you are looking for, your not the first guy to walk in and not know how to explain a part or know its name, ive used it a bunch of times for parts i could not name.

If you have the passenger axle out, take it with you to show them the clip. If not, just explain it's the clip on the end of an axle, but on the output shaft of the transmission. I figure they come in different sizes since axles aren't all the same diameter between different cars, but have never had to buy it separately. And the seal will definitely leak if there's no cv axle inserted. When changing the transmission on my Regal, my friend wanted to test some things before putting everything together. Started the car for a few seconds, and sure enough transmission fluid blew out without the cv axles there.

thanks for the help guys, my seal could still be good then. ill buy the clip, and see if that works. This tranny was just rebuilt less then 10k miles ago, and that was without the supercharger hooked up because of my motor problems i was having. this tranny has yet had any beating of any kind since rebuild. but i do understand seals go bad too. ill let you all know how i make it tonite, w/pics and a vid of my engine rebuild, since you all helped me get it running!

It might save you time and transmission fluid by just changing the seal anyways. Should be less than $10 at most parts stores. If the axle was being thrown around it might of stretched the seal out. There is a carrier bearing behind the seal that supports the axle, if the axle was pushed out enough, it wouldn't have all it's support. When changing the seal, be sure to not grab the carrier bearing or you'll need to pull off the side cover, valve body and then channel plate (where the carrier bearing sits), to replace it. I recommend either a slide hammer or use a screw driver and hammer to get under the metal edge of the seal and then use a pry bar to remove it the rest of the way.

ill buy the seal while im at it, might as well. only was able to drive 5 miles without the clip, didn't go any further. as for the retaining clip, i found something on the advanceauto parts store inventory that may work. however im not even sure what it is supposed to look like. is it going to be a clip with 2 eye hooks on the end? kind of like this one?
Advance Auto Parts

this is kind of frustrating for me because i need to make sure the clip isnt to big or else the axle shaft will not slide over the output shaft im assuming. and i need to make sure it isnt to small or else it isnt going to fit. im thinking about buying an assortment and see what works

The clip should look something like this: http://www.fiatplus.com/images/P/82281390.jpg Think it's called a snap ring though for this use may be called something else. Just have them pull out a cv axle and look at the snap ring on there. The one you show wouldn't work. Google: "cv axle ring" for more images. Here's another image with the ring installed: http://mkrd.info/uploads/images/comp...lustrated2.jpg

ok that gives me a better understanding of what it is supposed to look like. thanks

i finally found a clip! don't bother going to the part store, they have nothing like it. Dealer only item. here is a pic!

Car :: IMG_11781.jpg picture by Hixchris - Photobucket


Car :: IMG_11761.jpg picture by Hixchris - Photobucket

doesnt fit..................... i even bought a passenger side axle, took the clip off, put it on the driverside, and its to big. am i supposed to do?

IMG_11791.jpg picture by Hixchris - Photobucket

IMG_11791.jpg picture by Hixchris - Photobucket

my car is finished! no leaks! nice and sounds quiet. my WOT timing with the 3.0 pulley is about 17-18* and there is no knock. im going to post a vid, and some scans

now i have another problem. the car is overheating and idk why. seems maybee a blown headgasket now. the air intake makes a loud noise, and my car gets over 210. changed thermostat, radiator cap, brand new waterpump. the fans do work. i also notice a loss of power. and now i get knock at low rpms. between 0-13. im not sure exactly what the problem is. and the oil light came on when this happened but the oil was just changed and is full. also the abs light came on when it overheated and lost power. but seems to be off now

210 isn't overheating. it's nealry normal temp. How's your coolant level? I'm thinking that you likely have an air bubble in the engine and it's causing these issues. Have you followed the full bleeding procedure and or pulled the t stat to fill the LIM that way?

hmm, but the engine sounds different, like almost something internal, airfilter is loud. and no i did not do any bleeding, i thought it bleed itself. maybee that is my overheating problem?