Thread: Wont Start - wtf

Ok gtp wont start.
I had a day from hell. I blew a fuse on electric water pump but car would still start just not cooling. Dont know why it keeps blowing.

Then I hear noise and front fans are rubbing on my remote start line under ignition module.

Car still drives home like this lol....

20 minutes later I go to start the car and it cranks nice but wont start...
Fuel rail has pressure I have guages and I hear pump.
New Plugs - New Wires - Dont think all coilpacks went bad at once.
I checked all fuses and all seems ok
i replaced all relays all seems ok
No codes
I replaced Ignition module and removed remote start wire and taped it off

****ing thing wont start and battery dies while trying.. I jump it and still wont start, I have a new battery I can try but after jumper cables it cranks hard so I am very lost here, anyone have any ideas.... I was having a touch of rough idle like iac surging recently but I didnt think that would be it. Also tried removing maf to go in speed density and nothing....

So common sense tells me the remote start fried so i tried replacing it but got nothing, and then i thought maybe it shorted and fried ing. module.

anyone care to take some guesses before I just demod the thing lmao

anyone ?

Depends on how the remote start is wired up...it should have its own fuses where it connects to your ignition wires. So if it does short out, it will blow the fuses and prevent damage to your ignition. Also, your remote start module should have an LED on it that will blink a certain amount of times after a failed start...the number of blinks will indicate the issue for it not starting.

Hmm i will try that thanks... It is a viper system if that helps.
The only LED i know of is the valet mode which stays on, and there is only one wire that connects it to the iginition module, but I figured if I cut that wire completely it should start>?
I admit i didnt follow that line through firewall to look for a fuse that will be tomorrows project

No, the fuses will be right under the steering column, wired into your ignition wires. They will be the thicker wires from the viper module. The only wires that will go through your firewall are the Tach wire ( I use the voltage sense instead ) the hood pin wire ( which disables the remote start from starting while the hood is open ) and the alarm horn wire. There should be NO power wires going through the firewall or anywhere near the fans. If you could get some pics of this wire, it'd help a lot.

Keith...don't some guys also wire up that if the hood is open the car won't start period. Not just remote being disabled?

I dont think it is that, it is a wire that coems from under steering column down past the intake over the top of radiator and into the bottom of the ign. module...

wife shoudl be home soon to watch baby im gonna search for fuses and catch which ign module wire is tapped into and see what otehr info i can get

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Keith...don't some guys also wire up that if the hood is open the car won't start period. Not just remote being disabled?

You mean so it wont start even with the key when the hoods open? Thatd be a mean prank to pull on a mechanic...lol. The hood pin wire just disables the remote start module when that wire sees a ground

Ok I looked and I do not see a ****ed up fuse anywhere under sterring column just a mess of wires...

Here is the update:

FUEL, I have ZZP FUEL RAIL and it shows fuel pressure and I can hear pump kick on in accesory.

SPARK, I put spark tester on wire between coilpack and wire and I have spark at that point.

Does this mean I have a compression issue? Did I blow a headgasket?
I swapped to a solid battery I know works and I can crank the engine and it sounds strong but the damn thing wont start....

At this point I could really use help any ideas? I dont own a compression tester and before I buy one I would love some opinions.

you can rent a compression tester from pep boys, dont buy one if you dont need to. actually its a free rental you pay full price for it and then bring it back for a full refund. but they call it a rental, i rent tools from them when ever i need something out of the box so to say.

I misread your first post. I thought you were having remote start problems. You said you drove it without the water pump running, how hot did it get. You sure you didnt seize your motor?

im not sure but i dont think it got over like 210 or 215...
I noticed the water pump issue and quickly put in new fuse before driving home and it drove home nice and cool at 180ish before I parked it the last time.

It possible but who knows, any other ideas what could cause lack of start if you have fuel and spark ?

You don't need a compression tester. All six didn't go bad at once and you can run on 3 cylinders. (Don't ask ). If you have spark and fuel, then it's going to start. If your headgasket was bad..you'd still start and then it would run badly.

Maybe a crank sensor or icm. Any codes at all? What do the plugs look like? I've had issues starting in the past if the car was key clicked a bunch of times before firing up. It's because each time you click, you prime the cylinders. Too much and you soak the plugs. Wet plugs don't fire.

i replaced icm, have no codes, and will check plugs today they are new but so i didnt look at them for wetness

Ed, you can also try spraying a little bit of starting fluid in the intake. If it tries to fire, then good chance your injectors are not firing. You can also pull your plugs, but this is a quick easy check.

im sure not all 6 injectors went bad at once?
and i did check plugs today bill

Under the snout I see the T fitting with vacuum lines but no other little line ?

any other ideas?

a video or even a photo would be awesome
my undersnout area is crowded with water pump wiring and IC plumbing so it is possible while i messed with those that i knocked somethign loose there ? even though i dont see it

Oh I see the giant elbow you mean, it seems to be intact and connected so I dont think that is the problem....

this is so annoying