Thread: Won't start after cam install

yes, it does.

Ahhhh it looks like the theory about the HB was right. Glad it's such a simple fix. I also have a spare key or two laying around.

In the assembly of every cam/timing gear job I do, there's a couple things that are constants.
#1. A picture of the dots lining up. If those dots are lined up, your timing is correct.
#2. Always put the balancer on as mentioned by Gr8Racing said. That's the way it's done. Although I don't RTV, lube the bolt. I may start though. It's a good point.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Ahhhh it looks like the theory about the HB was right. Glad it's such a simple fix. I also have a spare key or two laying around.

In the assembly of every cam/timing gear job I do, there's a couple things that are constants.
#1. A picture of the dots lining up. If those dots are lined up, your timing is correct.
#2. Always put the balancer on as mentioned by Gr8Racing said. That's the way it's done. Although I don't RTV, lube the bolt. I may start though. It's a good point.

Yeah RTV or loctite is a great thing especially with LS1's. The crank doesn't have a key like the 3800's so they have a bad habit of spinning the bolt and balancer right off the car.

I'd say you have a good chance. The motor is moving better with the balancer off. The balancer looks like a second keyway was attempted to be made into it. Very likely the timing of the spark was off which caused the occasional backfire and no start.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

I'd say you have a good chance. The motor is moving better with the balancer off. The balancer looks like a second keyway was attempted to be made into it. Very likely the timing of the spark was off which caused the occasional backfire and no start.

^What he said.

We had that problem with a guys car and it drove us batty for 6 months litterally until finally someone suggested looking at the balancer. Sure enough, it was driven on with the key and slot not lined up.

Originally Posted by benner

Yeah RTV or loctite is a great thing especially with LS1's. The crank doesn't have a key like the 3800's so they have a bad habit of spinning the bolt and balancer right off the car.

The RTV isn't to keep the bolt on, and there is no need to use LocTite on the bolt either. The RTV seals the bolt to the balancer. If you do not put RTV on the back side of the bolt, engine oil will seep out from behind the bolt, and with the balancer spinning, will fling it. Its not a lot, but enough to make a small mess of things. Thats why the bolt shaft is always wet with engine oil when you first remove it. AND why there is some orange RTV on the back side of it from GM.

I use te Permetex Ultra Gray RTV for dam near everything on these engines where RTV is need or added. Only other RTV I use is the copper RTV for the header exhaust doughnuts, but thats for obvious reasons because of the temp.

I have reused my balancer bolt, shoot...probably 2 dozen times. Not kidding here. Its over built for what it is. Ya, its a TTY bolt, but its only been degree once in its life, from the get go by GM. Since then...its reached its torque but never "stretched" again. Same with the flex plate, and torque converter bolts, reused mine countless times I have had things apart, and back together.

I will loctite my flax plate bolts to the crank hands down. I don't recall if I do to the flex plate to torque converter. I think I may just put some anti seize on them. Never had them come loose on me.

Good luck, and glad we all got it figured out for you.

~F~