Its all back together now, I was just showing silver gtp what I tried because I'm pretty sure its the same he was describing.
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Yep, that's exactly how I did mine. Had to push pretty hard on that pipe to get it to break loose. If you block the flywheel from turning and use the same method, it should come off. Make sure you are pushing on the pipe and not pulling. We all have brain farts once in a while. It will be kinda rough at first. The whole back side of the head is coated with a red thread locker to stop the bolt from coming loose. It makes a little noise as you break that stuff free.
^The back side of the bolt head is coated with orange-ish red RTV from the factory to keep the engine oil from coming out around the bolt. If you don't install RTV, then it will fling oil as you drive.
~F~
YUP! Found that out the hard way after my buddy removed the "orange gooey sh*t" and re-used the factory bolt one time. Had to pull it all back apart, replace the crank seal, and put on a new bolt.
24" breaker bar + 36" cheater pipe = easy work on a difficult bolt!
(The hood was off at the time, so I actually had room to use all 5-feet...)
Put some WD40 in the impact gun, makes the impact hit a little harder for a short period of time.
Yep, exactly how I got in there. Right at the bottom of the transmission where it meets the oil pan is a small, black plastic cover held on by two bolts. If you take that off, you will see the bottom of the flywheel. I had a pry bar that matched up to the shape of teeth really well and used that to hold it in place while breaking the bolt.
Don't worry about asking questions that you think are trivial. I wasn't born knowing everything about cars and never will, but what I do know I had to learn somewhere along the way. The more you learn, the less questions you need to ask.
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