Did you seal it with a good amount of copper RTV? I did that when I put them in and no leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlprGS
Printable View
Did you seal it with a good amount of copper RTV? I did that when I put them in and no leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlprGS
Quote:
Originally Posted by footballplaya3k
I honestly didn't. I almost feel like it would have come out a lot better if I had done it myself. I paid money, only to have to go back and have them tighten the clamps and they didn't apply the rtv sealant to all the joints and connections as I asked. Where I did go wrong, was I should have gotten a different flex pipe, but until I get the time I'm gonna wrap it, hopefully it helps..
When the egr leaks its not all that uncommon for it to be bent/broken.
Oh, you mean like THIS!!Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/7130/img0440oc.jpg
I couldn't, for the life of me, seal up my leaking EGR when I installed my SD's....took it off, found this, deleted the whole mess.
SlprGS, just ditch it... it cleans up your engine bay anyways.
Yup, thats exactly the idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
okay, sounds like a good idea. well today, I'm hopefully gonna do that tonight. You guys have been very helpful. I used to be a lurker until regalgsforum went down, I guess I'm out of my lurker status..lol.. quick question, I deleted my cat and resonator and now I have a check engine light. I've read countless posts but am still a lil' sketchy on the details. My question is would the SES light go out once I run the extension to the O2 or is that where the emulator or code delete comes in? I feel like I got it, just wanna make sure..Quote:
Originally Posted by Colossus
depends on what year your car is and if you can delete the cat test.
Most of the time a code delete or emulator will fix it.
/\ /\ /\ I have an '02 Regal.
If the Regal is the same as the Grand Prix, you will need to leave your rear O2 in and set the P0420 code to not report. The computer runs a test on the 01-03 Grand Prix that runs rich for a short period of time and looks for a response from the rear O2. If it doesn't see any response, it assumes a problem and will run really rich causing bad gas mileage. I left my sensor in and set the code to not report and have not had a problem.
Actually it does somewhat the opposite.
What it does is changes the front O2's drastically then watches the rear to make sure it changes slowly but does indeed change. (thats how it'd respond if there was a cat in there)
The test doesnt stop if you have an emulator. It either needs the O2's to change quickly (bad cat) or slowly (good cat).
By that logic, Silver's solution should work.
More traditional methods include: run a cat, have the cat test itself deleted or put in one one or two of those cheaters which are basically O2 bung extensions of some sort. I believe TeeWX has more info on those cheaters.
probably the res delete, i been kickin myself in the ass since i removed it on my gt... i've heard good results from people putting glasspacks in place of them. but i don't drive my gt like ever anymore so i'm just gonna have to wait til i do the exhaust on my gtp.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlprGS
its an extension that spaces out the o2 sensor so it sees less of the exhaust flow, thus making it read a higher percentage of oxygen in the exhaust. its called a defouler and they sell them at literally any parts store.Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
I'm definitely gonna have to look into some sort of resonator.. I just corrected my vacuum issue and had my SES reset. I'm on my way to do my plugs and wires.. will keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the help..
Its two spark plug non foulers. $5 o2 cheater/non fouler how-to - evolutionm.netQuote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
^ Nice!!..
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01gpgt01
damn, now that looks interesting.. has anyone with a 3800 tried it? Also, just a quick update, I changed the plugs and wires (Autolite 606) No more hesitating while accelerating but now while idling at a stop light, the rpm fluctuates between 500 and just below 1000rpm.. any ideas? I went back to AZ for the third time today, and the new code is p301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected.. I'm lost and ( :th_nervous::th_depressed::th_shakinghead2::confus ed: ) all in one..
Can you check how much vacuum you have or your idle air counts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
Im a total nooob bro.. I'm pretty handy with a wrench but I'm lost when it comes to automotive electronics.. how do I check how much vacuum I have or my idle air counts?
Boost gauge or scan gauge for vacuum and IAC requires a scan gauge.
well you could use a OBDII tool that displays live data as well.
THAT or just spray around with carb cleaner and look for a vacuum leak.
okay, I guess I'll have to do the carb cleaner trick tomorrow..Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112